Vaatteen kest\u00e4vyyteen vaikuttaa materiaalisis\u00e4ll\u00f6n lis\u00e4ksi kankaan tiiviys, kuidun pituus sek\u00e4 langan tasalaatuisuus. Eri materiaalit kest\u00e4v\u00e4t kulutusta eri tavoin. Tiivis kangas on kest\u00e4v\u00e4mp\u00e4\u00e4 kuin harvaan kudottu. Tiiviiss\u00e4 kankaassa langat ovat kiinte\u00e4sti toisiaan vasten, ne tukevat toisiaan ja kuluvat v\u00e4hemm\u00e4n. Mit\u00e4 lyhyemp\u00e4\u00e4 kuitu on, sit\u00e4 todenn\u00e4k\u00f6isemmin se alkaa nyppyynty\u00e4. K\u00e4ytettyjen kuitujen lyhyys erottuu kankaan pinnassa pienen\u00e4 karvaisuutena valoa vasten. Mit\u00e4 sile\u00e4mpi kankaan pinta, sit\u00e4 laadukkaammat, pitk\u00e4t kuidut. Mit\u00e4 ep\u00e4tasaisempaa ja ohuempaa kuitu on, sit\u00e4 heikompaa se on. Jos kuidussa on paljon paksumpia tai ohuempia kohtia jotka erottuvat kankaan rakenteessa, sit\u00e4 nopeammin se kuluu. Kerron eri materiaaleista lis\u00e4\u00e4 my\u00f6hemmin omina postauksinaan, mutta kysyk\u00e4\u00e4 ihmeess\u00e4 jos joku tekstiiliasia mietitytt\u00e4\u00e4. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
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<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n\n\nThere was an interesting conversation on the Facebook quite some time ago about quality of fabrics and about how people don’t really know very much about features of different materials. So I said that perhaps I should start a blog post series about textile materials. I suppose I should start it then. Black Friday is appropriate time to launch this. Day dedicated to shopping spree is perfect day to start learning about materials. Good knowledge about fabrics helps you buy better quality and avoid bad purchases. So let’s start with the very basics.\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Textile fibers are divided in two categories: artificial fibers and natural fibers. Artificial fibers are synthetic fibers, unorganic fibers and regenerated fibers. Regenerated fibers are basically cellulose, aka wood. Most common cellulose fibers are viscose (old name rayon, which should not be used anymore), modal, cupro and acetate. Synthetic fibers are made of chemical compounds. Everyone knows the most common ones: polyester, polyamide, acrylic and elastane. Unorganic fibers, glassfiber and metal are mostly used in different kind of industry, allthough metal fibers might have been added in special clothing fabrics for effect.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n\nNatural fibers are divided in three different categories: plant fibers, animal fibers and mineral fibers. Only item in mineral fibers is asbestos, which is not used for clothes at all. Animal fibers are quite obviously all sorts of wool and hair, but also fibers made by specific moths, like silk moth. Plant fibers have four subcategories: seed fibers, stem fibers, leaf fibers and fruit fibers. Cotton is the best known seed fiber. Mostly used stem fibers are linen, hemp and juti. Leaf fibers like manilla and sisaland fruit fiber coconut are too coarse for making clothes, but suitable for ropes and sacks.\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Besides those mentioned, there can be all sorts of rare fibers you might bump into every now and then, for example\u00a0aramid, cotton grass fiber, nettle, casein or carbon fiber. In vintage clothing there might be odd commercial names for fibers, however only in 70’s or older clothing. Back then the law didn’t still regulate how companies should label the materials. These days commercial name is not enough, but the official name of the fiber must be mentioned. All though these days still seems very popular to use just letter combination instead of the full name. That is not legal anymore either. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Fabrics can be 100% of material or what ever ratio of mixed fibers. Pretty much any fiber can be used either on it’s own or mixed with others. Only exception is elastane, which I have never seen on it’s own. It’s only mixed with others, usually with ratio 1-15%. Current legislation is a bit stubid, because if there is 5% or less of specific fiber, is is not necessary to mention the name of it. Also if there are fibers in the fabric with total content of 15%, it is not necessary to mention all of them. Marking “other fibers” is adequate. Have you noticed btw that these days it’s rare to find garment or fabric with 100% material content. Stuff that is sold is mostly mix-fabrics with up to 4 or even 5 different materials. I would like to know what is the benefit of this kind of mixing (just more profit?) and is it making the material more durable?<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Durability of the garment depends on several things: material content, gauge of the weave, length of the fiber and evenness of the yarn. Different materials have different durability. Tightly woven fabric is more durable than loose weave. Yarns are tightly next to each other, so they wear off less. The shorter the fiber is, more likely it is to create pilling. If fibers are very short, fabric looks quite hairy on the surface against the light. The smoother the surface, the longer the fibers. If the yarn is very uneven, with lots of thicker and thinner areas, faster it wears. Thinner areas on the yarn make the fabric weaker. I will tell more about each material in their own posts, but feel free to ask me if you are pondering something about textiles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n K\u00e4vimme jo melko pitk\u00e4 tovi sitten kiinnostavaa keskustelua Facebookin puolella tekstiilien laadusta ja puhuimme siit\u00e4, ett\u00e4 ihmiset eiv\u00e4t loppujen lopuksi ole kovin hyvin perill\u00e4 erilaisten materiaalien ominaisuuksista. Tulin sitten lohkaisseeksi, ett\u00e4 pit\u00e4isi vissiin aloittaa blogissa sarja tekstiilikuiduista. Ett\u00e4 jotta parempi vissiin pist\u00e4\u00e4 sitten homma tulille,\u00a0 n\u00e4in Black Fridayn kunniaksi. Aihe liittyy ostoshurmos-p\u00e4iv\u00e4\u00e4n sik\u00e4li, ett\u00e4 hyv\u00e4… <\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/fibers2.jpg?resize=800%2C671\")
Modal, merino wool and metal fibers. Modal, like merino, is very soft. How well those will last the rubbing of hard and sharp metal fibers? Yet to be seen. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/fibers1.jpg?resize=800%2C682\")
100% viscose is one of those fibers you stil can see on it’s own. This blouse is from early 90’s, from the time when viscose still had marked shrinkage in materials. Nowadays viscose is mostly improved quality and preshrunk. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"