{"id":11676,"date":"2016-06-05T22:01:46","date_gmt":"2016-06-05T19:01:46","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=11676"},"modified":"2016-06-05T22:01:46","modified_gmt":"2016-06-05T19:01:46","slug":"kesahattu-1700-luvulle-1700s-summer-hat","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=11676","title":{"rendered":"Kes\u00e4hattu 1700-luvulle \/ 1700’s Summer hat"},"content":{"rendered":"

1700-luvun vaatekaappini on toistaiseksi viel\u00e4 kovin vaatimaton. Parin viikon p\u00e4\u00e4st\u00e4 olisi tiedossa L’Amusetten 1700-luvun piknik (18.6 klo 14.00, Arboretumissa, jos s\u00e4\u00e4 sallii, tervetuloa mukaan!)<\/strong><\/span>, joten ajattelin lis\u00e4t\u00e4 varusteita kes\u00e4isell\u00e4, auringolta suojaavalla hatulla. Omien varsin pintapuolisten tutkimusteni perusteella berg\u00e9re-hattu eli ns. paimentyt\u00f6nhattu\u00a0oli silloin kovin suosittu. T\u00e4ss\u00e4 olkihatussa on leve\u00e4 lieri ja eritt\u00e4in matala kupu. Se voi olla ihan pelkistetty ilman koristeita mutta toisaalta siin\u00e4 voi olla hyvinkin runsaasti koristeita: nauhoja, rusetteja ja tekokukkia. Joskus ne olivat jopa kankaalla p\u00e4\u00e4llystettyj\u00e4. Tavan mukaan hatun alla k\u00e4ytettiin viel\u00e4 lis\u00e4ksi valkoista myssy\u00e4.<\/p>\n

1700-luvun hattupohjia on jokseenkin hankala l\u00f6yt\u00e4\u00e4 valmiina, joten min\u00e4p\u00e4 sitten nappasin kirppikselt\u00e4 mukaan modernin olkisen kes\u00e4hatun ajatuksena silpoa se 1700-luvun malliin. Ja n\u00e4in se tapahtuu:<\/p>\n

Tarvikkeet:<\/strong><\/span>
\nModerni olkihattu
\nvinokanttia
\nkankaasta t\u00e4ysvinoon leikattuja suikaleita
\nkukkia, rusetteja, pitsi\u00e4 yms koristeita<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\"inenglish\"<\/a><\/p>\n

My 1700’s wardrobe is still rather modest and small. There will be L’Amusette 1700’s picnic in two weeks (at Arboretum on 18.6. 14.00 o’clock, if weather stays good, you are welcome to join in!)<\/strong><\/span>, so I thought I should make some Summer accessories, like wide brimmed hat for sun protection. According my own, very shallow investigations, berg\u00e9re hat, aka so called shepherdess hat was very popular at the time. This hat has wide brim and very shallow crown. It can be plain, without any decorations, but on the other hand it can be also loaded with decorations: ribbons, bows and flowers. Sometimes they were even covered with fabric. As it was common at the time, hats were usually worn over white cap.<\/p>\n

It’s very difficult to find proper 1700’s hat bases in Finland, so I grabbed this plain modern straw hat from flea market. I decided to cut it into proper shape. Here it goes:<\/p>\n

You need:<\/strong><\/span>
\nModern straw hat
\nbias ribbon trim
\nbias cut fabric strips
\nflowers, bows, lace or other decorations<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\"bergere\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"bergere1\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"bergere2\"<\/a><\/p>\n

1. Kostuta hatun kupu kauttaaltaan ja anna sen vetty\u00e4 jonkin aikaa jotta olki
\npehmenee.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>Leikkaa sitten kupu irti noin sentin p\u00e4\u00e4st\u00e4 lierist\u00e4. Leikkaa kupua
\nmatalammaksi reunoilta.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>Kuvun korkeus vaihtelee, mutta p\u00e4\u00e4asiassa se on
\naika matala,\u00a0omani on noin 4 sentti\u00e4 korkea. Kuivan oljen k\u00e4sittely
\nvoi murtaa olkia. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\n1. Soak the hat crown completely and let it get softer. Then cut the crown<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\noff about 1 cm away from the brim. Cut crown lower on the edges.<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nHeight varies, but usually it is very low, mine is about 4 cm high.<\/em>
\nHandling dry straw might cause breaking.\u00a0<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"bergere3\"<\/a><\/p>\n

2. Kun olki on kunnolla pehmennyt, ompele kumpaankin leikattuun reunaan<\/strong><\/span>
\nvinokantti est\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n olkipunoksen purkautumista. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\n2. When straw is soft, sew bias trim on both cut edges, to prevent<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nweave from raveling.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"bergere4\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"bergere5\"<\/a><\/p>\n

3. Jos kupu on muotoiltu kostuta ja pehmit\u00e4 se viel\u00e4 huolellisesti ja\u00a0aseta<\/strong><\/span>
\npainon alle suoristumaan. Aseta kuvun sis\u00e4\u00e4n tasapohjainen\u00a0kuvun kokoinen<\/strong><\/span>
\nkulho tai kansi joka pit\u00e4\u00e4 kuvun tasaisena ja laita\u00a0sen p\u00e4\u00e4lle viel\u00e4\u00a0jotain<\/strong><\/span>
\npainavaa painamaan kupua tasaisesti.\u00a0My\u00f6s lieri on mahdollista muotoilla takaa<\/strong><\/span>
\nnousemaan yl\u00f6sp\u00e4in,\u00a0mutta suorakin lieri k\u00e4y oikein hyvin. Jos muotoilet lieri\u00e4, sekin<\/strong><\/span>
\npit\u00e4\u00e4 kuivumisen ajaksi tukea huolellisesti ettei l\u00f6ps\u00e4hd\u00e4 kuivumisen aikana. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\n3. If crown is pressed into odd shape, soak it again and make sure it’s soft.<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nThen place it under weights to straighten. Place flat bottom bowl or lid inside<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nthe crown and put weights on it untill it dries on new shape. You can also<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nreshape brim, but flat brim is ok too. If you reshape brim, you must support
\nthat too,\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em>otherwise it will not dry to good shape.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

4. Kun kupu ja lieri ovat kuivuneet uuteen muotoonsa, ompele
\nne tukevasti yhteen k\u00e4sin. \/
\n4. When crown and brim are dry, sew then together by hand.\u00a0<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"bergere6\"<\/a><\/p>\n

5. Uusi saumakohta j\u00e4\u00e4 n\u00e4kyviin mutta se peitet\u00e4\u00e4n koristenauhalla. Itse
\nk\u00e4ytin\u00a0t\u00e4ysvinoon leikattua taftia jonka ompelin pienille puhveille.\u00a0Omassa
\nhatussani oli jo sattumalta valmiiksi rei\u00e4t solmimisnauhoille, mutta
\nne voi my\u00f6s kiinnitt\u00e4\u00e4 hatun kuvun sis\u00e4puolen reunoihin, hikinauhaan. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\n5. Seam will be visible, but it will be covered with decorative ribbon.
\nI used bias cut taffeta which I turned into puffy decoration ribbon.
\nMy hat already had holes for \u00a0ties, but you can also attach them inside
\nthe crown on the sweat band.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"bergere7\"<\/a><\/p>\n

6. T\u00e4m\u00e4n j\u00e4lkeen voit lis\u00e4t\u00e4 koristeita oman makusi mukaan. Halusin t\u00e4ll\u00e4<\/strong><\/span>
\nkertaa varsin pelkistetyn v\u00e4risen hatun, jotta se sopisi my\u00f6hemmin my\u00f6s muun
\nv\u00e4risiin\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>asuihin, joten nauhan ja kukkien v\u00e4reiksi valikoituivat t\u00e4llaiset
\nhempe\u00e4n vaaleat. Yleis\u00f6mielipiteiden perusteella lis\u00e4sin viel\u00e4 ison
\nrusetin ep\u00e4symmetrisesti hatun lierin takaosaan.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>
\n6. After this you can add decor of your liking. I wanted to create\u00a0rather
\nneutrally coloured hat, so it would fit various outfits. That’s why
\nmy ribbons and flowers are very bland. According to friends opinions,
\nI also added big bow asymmetrically at the back.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"bergere8\"<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

1700-luvun vaatekaappini on toistaiseksi viel\u00e4 kovin vaatimaton. Parin viikon p\u00e4\u00e4st\u00e4 olisi tiedossa L’Amusetten 1700-luvun piknik (18.6 klo 14.00, Arboretumissa, jos s\u00e4\u00e4 sallii, tervetuloa mukaan!), joten ajattelin lis\u00e4t\u00e4 varusteita kes\u00e4isell\u00e4, auringolta suojaavalla hatulla. Omien varsin pintapuolisten tutkimusteni perusteella berg\u00e9re-hattu eli ns. paimentyt\u00f6nhattu\u00a0oli silloin kovin suosittu. T\u00e4ss\u00e4 olkihatussa on leve\u00e4 lieri ja eritt\u00e4in matala kupu. Se voi… <\/p>\n

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