{"id":11548,"date":"2016-05-05T19:50:42","date_gmt":"2016-05-05T16:50:42","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=11548"},"modified":"2016-05-05T19:50:39","modified_gmt":"2016-05-05T16:50:39","slug":"jurmala","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=11548","title":{"rendered":"J\u016brmala"},"content":{"rendered":"

Latvian matka osa kaksi. Tiistaina oli vuorossa p\u00e4iv\u00e4retki J\u016brmalaan. Jos olet k\u00e4ynyt Hangossa, P\u00e4rnussa tai Bathissa niin tied\u00e4t millainen paikka J\u016brmala on. Se on 15 pikkukyl\u00e4st\u00e4 koostuva kylpyl\u00e4kaupunki jossa rikkaat viettiv\u00e4t\u00a0(ja viett\u00e4v\u00e4t edelleen)<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0kes\u00e4lomiaan upeissa pitsihuviloissa. Kaupungin jokaisessa pieness\u00e4 kyl\u00e4ss\u00e4 on oma rautatieasemansa. Suuri osa upeista vanhoista rakennuksista on s\u00e4ilynyt ja jos n\u00e4et talon sein\u00e4ss\u00e4 sinivalkoisen viirin kuvan, se tarkoittaa sit\u00e4 ett\u00e4 rakennus on suojeltu eik\u00e4 siihen saa tehd\u00e4 muutoksia. Kuulemani mukaan sek\u00e4 Virossa ett\u00e4 Latviassa vanhat rakennukset on muutenkin suojeltu niin ett\u00e4 niit\u00e4 ei saa purkaa, tai jos purkaminen on ainoa vaihtoehto, tilalle on rakennettava alkuper\u00e4isen tyylinen talo. Ik\u00e4v\u00e4 kyll\u00e4 J\u016brmalan p\u00e4iv\u00e4n\u00e4 \u00a0sataa tihutteli ja tuuli kovaa, ei se paras keli kylpyl\u00e4kaupunkiin ja hiekkarantaan tutustumiseen. Aikainen kev\u00e4t ei muutenkaan ehk\u00e4 ole paras ajankohta kes\u00e4kaupungin kiertelyyn. N\u00e4imme kuitenkin koko joukon eritt\u00e4in kauniita huviloita. Tiistain retkell\u00e4 opas onneksi\u00a0kertoi my\u00f6s muita kiinnostavia faktatietoja kuin luetteli vuosilukuja ja arkkitehtonisia yksityiskohtia.<\/p>\n

J\u016brmalan kyliss\u00e4 asuu oppaan mukaan hieman erilaisia asukkaita. Upeimmat huvilat ovat omalla alueellaan ja ne ovat p\u00e4\u00e4osin uusrikkaiden ven\u00e4l\u00e4isten omistuksessa. Toisessa kyl\u00e4ss\u00e4 on huviloita Latvian omalla kermalla kuten poliitikoilla ja julkkiksilla. Latvian keskiluokan kes\u00e4huvilat ovat n\u00e4ist\u00e4 vaatimattomampia omalla alueellaan. N\u00e4ill\u00e4 alueilla huvilat ovat suuren osan vuodesta tyhjill\u00e4\u00e4n. Ja kun sanon “tyhjill\u00e4\u00e4n” se tarkoittaa ett\u00e4 huvila joko on todellakin tyhjill\u00e4\u00e4n, tai sitten siell\u00e4 asuu henkil\u00f6kunta huolehtimassa kiinteist\u00f6st\u00e4 kun omistajat eiv\u00e4t ole paikalla. Ja sitten ovat viel\u00e4 ne kyl\u00e4t joissa asuvat J\u016brmalan vakituiset, ymp\u00e4rivuotiset asukkaat. Turistioppaan sanoin t\u00e4m\u00e4. H\u00e4nest\u00e4 tuntui olevan hirve\u00e4n t\u00e4rke\u00e4\u00e4 korostaa miten kurjaa ja k\u00f6yh\u00e4\u00e4 kaikilla Latviassa on. Ajoittain olo oli hieman vaivautunut kun alkoi tuntua sille ett\u00e4 t\u00e4ss\u00e4 ollaan kroisosia kun meill\u00e4 on varaa l\u00e4hte\u00e4 ulkomaanmatkalle, vaikka ei t\u00e4ss\u00e4 itsek\u00e4\u00e4n Suomen mittapuulla mitattuna olla edes keskituloisten kastissa. Mielest\u00e4ni tuollainen ei ole turistioppaan teht\u00e4v\u00e4 tai asia ollenkaan. Muutoin kiertoajelut olivat kyll\u00e4 ihan jees.<\/p>\n

PS. Pahoittelen kuvien tuhnuisuutta, ulkona sataa tihutti ja suurin osa kuvista on otettu m\u00e4r\u00e4n bussin ikkunan l\u00e4pi, vauhdissa.<\/p>\n

\"inenglish\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Latvia trip part two. Tuesday we had scheduled visit to J\u016brmala. If you have visited P\u00e4rnu, Hanko or Bath, you pretty much know what J\u016brmala is like. It is seaside and spa town where rich people used to spend\u00a0(and still are spending)<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0their summer holidays in fabulous summer villas. Town consists of 15 small villages which each have their own train station. Majority of the magnificent old buildings are still existing. If you see white and blue sign on the wall of a building, it means you can’t make any alterations to that building, it is protected. I have heard that in both Latvia and Estonia, old buildings are somewhat protected and it’s not allowed to take them down unless it’s the absolutely only option. If you take that kind of building down, you have to build replica of it. So you can’t replace two-floor\u00a0wooden building with\u00a0five-floor\u00a0concrete one. Unfortunately J\u016brmala was rainy and very windy, not the best weather to see the spa town and white beach. Early spring is not the best possible time to see the summer town anyways. We did see some rather fancy villas though. And thankfully the guide was telling more interesting stories this time, rather than just listing dates and architectural details.<\/p>\n

According to our tour guide, there are different kind of people living in these small villages of J\u016brmala. Most flamboyant villas are on their own area and they are mostly owned by nouveau riche Russians. On the other village there are villas for the Latvian creme de la creme, like politicians or stars. Latvian middle class have summer houses on a bit more modest area. Most of these houses are empty great part of the year. And when I say “empty” it means that they are either genuinely empty, or there are living the staff taking care of the premises when owners are away. And then there are those villages where the ordinary permanent J\u016brmala recidents live. All this according to our tour guide. It seemed quite important to her to highlight how poor everyone in Latvia are and how miserable it is to live there. At times we felt slightly uncomfortable, because it was starting to feel that we are really wealthy when we got money to travel abroad. But we are not even in the middle range of income in Finnish standards. I don’t think that kind of thing is part of tourist guides job or business at all. Otherwise our tours were quite ok.<\/p>\n

PS. I apologize about the bad photo quality, it was a bit rainy and most of the photos were taken through wet coach window, on the move.<\/p>\n

\"jurmala1\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"jurmala2\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"jurmala3\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"jurmala4\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Yksi J\u016brmalan kuuluisimmista huviloista on t\u00e4m\u00e4 Villa Marta. Alkuper\u00e4inen, t\u00e4ss\u00e4<\/strong><\/span>
\nkuvassa n\u00e4kyv\u00e4 huvila on rakennettu 1928, mutta nykyinen huvila k\u00e4sitt\u00e4\u00e4 lis\u00e4ksi<\/strong><\/span>
\npaljon\u00a0laajemman modernin osan uima-altaineen, tenniskenttineen ja kirjastoineen.<\/strong><\/span>
\nKuvia sis\u00e4lt\u00e4 voitte katsoa vaikka Sothebyn sivulta<\/a>.\u00a0\u00a0\/<\/strong><\/span>
\nOne of the most famous villa’s in J\u016brmala is this Villa Marta. Original villa, seen<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nin this photo was built in 1928, but the current whole villa consists also of<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nmodern, much larger area with pool, indoor tennis court, library etc. More
\nphotos\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em>from the villa you can see on Sotheby page<\/a>.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"jurmala5\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"jurmala6\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Moderni arkkitehtuuri on Latviassa varsin j\u00e4nnitt\u00e4v\u00e4\u00e4. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nModern architecture is rather interesting in Latvia.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"jurmala7\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Monet huviloista ovat myynniss\u00e4 (taisi per\u00e4ti yksi hotellikin olla myyt\u00e4v\u00e4n\u00e4),<\/strong><\/span>
\nkuten t\u00e4m\u00e4 rapistunut sata-ikkunainen tornihuoneinen huvila. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nMany of the villas are for sale (I think even one of the hotels was too),<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nlike this scruffy villa with hundred windows and tower room.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"jurmala8\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"jurmala9\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"jurmala10\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Yksi rautatieasemista muistuttaa aaltoa. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nOne of the train stations resembles wave.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"jurmala11\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"jurmala12\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Uimaranta oli kylm\u00e4, m\u00e4rk\u00e4 ja tuulinen. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nBeach was cold, wet and windy.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"jurmala13\"<\/a><\/p>\n

T\u00e4ll\u00e4 merkill\u00e4 varustetut talot ovat suojelukohteita. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nHouses marked with this sign are protected and can’t be changed.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Latvian matka osa kaksi. Tiistaina oli vuorossa p\u00e4iv\u00e4retki J\u016brmalaan. Jos olet k\u00e4ynyt Hangossa, P\u00e4rnussa tai Bathissa niin tied\u00e4t millainen paikka J\u016brmala on. Se on 15 pikkukyl\u00e4st\u00e4 koostuva kylpyl\u00e4kaupunki jossa rikkaat viettiv\u00e4t\u00a0(ja viett\u00e4v\u00e4t edelleen)\u00a0kes\u00e4lomiaan upeissa pitsihuviloissa. Kaupungin jokaisessa pieness\u00e4 kyl\u00e4ss\u00e4 on oma rautatieasemansa. Suuri osa upeista vanhoista rakennuksista on s\u00e4ilynyt ja jos n\u00e4et talon sein\u00e4ss\u00e4 sinivalkoisen… <\/p>\n

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