{"id":11470,"date":"2016-05-04T10:00:52","date_gmt":"2016-05-04T07:00:52","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=11470"},"modified":"2016-05-05T23:18:16","modified_gmt":"2016-05-05T20:18:16","slug":"riika-riga","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=11470","title":{"rendered":"Riika \/ Riga"},"content":{"rendered":"

Nyt voisi olla sopiva hetki kertoa\u00a0meid\u00e4n taannoisesta matkastamme.\u00a0T\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa reissasimme perinteisell\u00e4 ryhm\u00e4matka-metodilla ja vietimme alkuviikon tuulisessa ja hieman sateisessakin Riikassa, Latviassa. Matkaan l\u00e4hdimme bussilla aikaisin sunnuntai-aamuna, otimme lautan Helsingist\u00e4 Tallinnaan ja ajoimme linjabiilill\u00e4 Tallinnasta P\u00e4rnun kautta Riikaan. Bussimatka kesti noin 7-8 tuntia parin pys\u00e4hdyksen kera (yksi lyhyt, yksi pidempi paussi)<\/strong><\/span>.<\/p>\n

Latvia on vastakohtaisuuksien maa jossa ero rikkaiden ja k\u00f6yhien v\u00e4lill\u00e4 on n\u00e4kyv\u00e4. Neuvostovallan vaikutus n\u00e4kyy siell\u00e4 etenkin visuaalisesti edelleen vahvasti, osin johtuen siit\u00e4 miten rankasti 2008 alkanut lama koetteli Latviaa. 90-luvun lupaava talouskasvu katkesi kuin sein\u00e4\u00e4 ja se on j\u00e4tt\u00e4nyt n\u00e4kyv\u00e4n arven Latvian ja Riikan julkisivuun. Monet rakennukset ovat Riikassa t\u00e4ysin tyhjill\u00e4\u00e4n ja se onkin urbaanien l\u00f6yt\u00f6retkeilij\u00f6iden unelmakohde. Osa jopa uusista rakennuksista on j\u00e4\u00e4nyt rempalleen kun raha on loppunut kesken. T\u00e4st\u00e4 kertoo omaa tarinaansa mm. nelj\u00e4n pilvenpiirt\u00e4j\u00e4n asuntokompleksi joista kaksi valmistui ja kolmas j\u00e4i keskener\u00e4iseksi luurangoksi. Nelj\u00e4tt\u00e4 ei koskaan alettu rakentaa. Useat k\u00e4yt\u00f6ss\u00e4kin olevat rakennukset ovat ainakin ulkoa varsin huonokuntoisia vaikka kaupungissa onkin kaikkialla k\u00e4ynniss\u00e4 kunnostust\u00f6it\u00e4. Tavallinen n\u00e4ky kaupungissa ovatkin huputetut rakennukset jotka joko odottavat kunnostusta tai ovat parhaillaan remontissa.<\/p>\n

Arkkitehtuurissa on selv\u00e4sti erotettavissa kaudet ennen, j\u00e4lkeen ja Neuvostovallan aikana. Itse\u00e4ni vieh\u00e4tt\u00e4\u00e4 suuresti sek\u00e4 Virossa ett\u00e4 Latviassa n\u00e4kyv\u00e4 leikkimielinen arkkitehtuuri ja rakentaminen. Talot eiv\u00e4t ole v\u00e4ltt\u00e4m\u00e4tt\u00e4 kovin symmetrisi\u00e4 tai tarkkaan harkitun muotoisia vaan niiss\u00e4 voi olla outoja kulmia ja ep\u00e4symmetrisi\u00e4 muotoja. Omakotitaloissa erottuvat vahvasti suomalaisesta tyylist\u00e4 poikkeavat\u00a0erikoiset v\u00e4rivalinnat kuten myrkynvihre\u00e4 ja voimakas turkoosi tai vahvat karkkiv\u00e4rit. Virolaisille omakotitaloille tyypilliset py\u00f6re\u00e4t eteis- tai k\u00e4yt\u00e4v\u00e4ikkunat l\u00f6ytyv\u00e4t my\u00f6s latvialaisesta omakotitalorakentamisesta.<\/p>\n

Riika & Latvia
\n<\/strong><\/span>– Latvia on EU:n k\u00f6yhin\u00a0valtio
\n– maa on alavaa ja sill\u00e4 on pitk\u00e4lti merenrantaa ja upeita hiekkarantoja
\n– maan\u00a0p\u00e4\u00e4kaupunki on Riika
\n– ty\u00f6v\u00e4est\u00f6n keskikuukausiansio on noin\u00a0kolmannes suomalaisesta, v\u00e4h\u00e4n p\u00e4\u00e4lle 650 \u20ac
\n– Latvia itsen\u00e4istyi ensimm\u00e4isen kerran 1918, mutta joutui Neuvostoliiton haltuun\u00a01940
\n– maan v\u00e4est\u00f6 v\u00e4henee jatkuvasti\u00a0alhaisen syntyvyyden, luonnollisen poistuman ja maastamuuton johdosta,\u00a01990 v\u00e4est\u00f6n m\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4 oli noin 2,5 miljoonaa, nyt alle miljoonan
\n– Riikan vanha kaupunki on UNESCOn maailmanperint\u00f6kohde
\n– Riika-joki josta kaupunki saa nimens\u00e4 on kuivunut ja sen paikalla on nyky\u00e4\u00e4n tie
\n– Daugava-joki virtaa kaupunkin l\u00e4pi ja sen suistossa on my\u00f6s Riikan merisatama<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

N\u00e4ht\u00e4vyydet<\/strong><\/span>
\nMaanantaina ohjelmaan kuului kiertoajelu ja -k\u00e4vely Riikassa. En ehtinyt saada hirve\u00e4sti vinkkej\u00e4 matkaa varten, mutta kaveri vinkkasi Art Nouveau-tyylisest\u00e4 alueesta vanhan kaupungin vieress\u00e4. T\u00e4m\u00e4 alue sis\u00e4ltyikin kiertoajeluun, joten emme sitten en\u00e4\u00e4 erikseen l\u00e4hteneet sinne k\u00e4velem\u00e4\u00e4n, vaikka sielt\u00e4 olisi l\u00f6ytynyt upea\u00a0Art Nouveau-museo<\/a>.\u00a0Museo siis\u00a0j\u00e4i t\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa meilt\u00e4 v\u00e4liin. Vanhassa kaupungissakin on paljon n\u00e4ytt\u00e4vi\u00e4 rakennuksia ja kiinnostavaa n\u00e4ht\u00e4v\u00e4\u00e4. Meill\u00e4 ei ollut\u00a0omatoimiselle kiertelylle hirve\u00e4sti aikaa etuk\u00e4teen sovitun\u00a0matkaohjelman lis\u00e4ksi. Kiertoajelu oli omaan makuuni hivenen tyls\u00e4hk\u00f6, sill\u00e4 opas ei kertonut juuri lainkaan kiinnostavia anekdootteja, vaan luetteli valtavasti vuosilukuja ja historiallisia faktoja, listasi arkkitehtonisia tyylisuuntia ja nimi\u00e4 niin nopeaan tahtiin ettei per\u00e4ss\u00e4 tahtonut pysy\u00e4. Mieleen j\u00e4i kuitenkin tarina Pyh\u00e4n Jaakobin\u00a0kirkon kellosta, joka tarinan mukaan soi vain kolmessa tapauksessa: kun kaupunkia uhkaa vihollinen, kaupunkia uhkaa tulva tai kun uskoton vaimo k\u00e4velee kirkon ohi. Tarinan mukaan paikalliset naiset kyll\u00e4styiv\u00e4t jatkuvaan kellon soimiseen ja ottivat sen alas tornista. Nykyisell\u00e4 kirkonkellolla ei kuulemma ole sellaisia ominaisuuksia vaan se soi ainoastaan kirkonmenojen aikaan.<\/p>\n

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Koska Riikan baletti on jokseenkin kuuluisa tanssiteatteri, olin etuk\u00e4teen tarkistanut olisiko matkan aikana baletti-esityksi\u00e4. Niit\u00e4 ei kuitenkaan sopivasti matkalle osunut (sunnuntaina olisi ollut, mutta saavuimme niin my\u00f6h\u00e4\u00e4n, ett\u00e4 emme olisi sinne ehtineet)<\/strong><\/span>. Sunnuntai-iltana kuitenkin bongasin matkailulehdest\u00e4, ett\u00e4 Riikassa vietet\u00e4\u00e4n parhaillaan kansainv\u00e4list\u00e4 baletti-festivaalia<\/a> jonka gaala-ilta sattui juuri maanantai-iltaan. Lippuja sai kuin saikin viel\u00e4 ovelta joten p\u00e4\u00e4simme \u00e4idin kanssa katsomaan kansainv\u00e4lisi\u00e4 balettit\u00e4hti\u00e4 Kiinasta, Ukrainasta, Ranskasta, Virosta ja tietenkin Latviasta. Vuonna 1863 valmistunut Latvian kansallinen\u00a0Ooppera & Baletti<\/a> on rakennuksenakin eritt\u00e4in vaikuttavaa n\u00e4ht\u00e4v\u00e4\u00e4 koristeellisine kattoineen ja kultauksineen. Meist\u00e4 poiketen liput kannattaa kuitenkin varata etuk\u00e4teen, vaikka riikalaisilla n\u00e4ytt\u00e4isikin suurimmaksi osaksi olevan tapana hankkia liput vasta tapahtumap\u00e4iv\u00e4n\u00e4, tosin kuin Suomessa. Lippujen hinnat n\u00e4ytt\u00e4v\u00e4t olevan ainakin baletteihin todella edullisia, 5-35\u20ac. Gaalaan liput olivat hiukan kalliimpia.<\/p>\n

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Riikan musta kissa<\/strong><\/span>
\nKuljeskellessasi Riikassa, saatat huomata siell\u00e4 t\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 kuvia mustasta kissasta. Se on er\u00e4\u00e4nlainen Riikan symboli ja tarina sen synnyst\u00e4 menee n\u00e4in: Vuosia ja vuosia sitten saksalaiset kauppiaat saapuivat Riikaan tekem\u00e4\u00e4n kauppaa\u00a0ja\u00a0perustivat kauppiaiden killan. Er\u00e4s latvialainen menestyksek\u00e4s kauppias halusi kovasti liitty\u00e4 kiltaan mutta he eiv\u00e4t hyv\u00e4ksyneet j\u00e4senikseen muita kuin saksalaisia. T\u00e4st\u00e4 suivaantuneena latvialainen kauppias pystytti talonsa katolle mustan kissan kuvan joka pyllisti kohti saksalaisten kauppiaiden kiltaa joka oli vastap\u00e4\u00e4t\u00e4 latvialaisen kauppiaan taloa. Kauppiaat toki arvasivat kissan todellisen tarkoituksen ja k\u00e4skiv\u00e4t latvialaista kauppiasta k\u00e4\u00e4nt\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n kissan oikein p\u00e4in. Tarina on kuulemma vain hauska tarina, mutta kissasta tuli kansan idoli. Todellisuudessa musta kissa on ainoastaan talon n\u00e4ytt\u00e4v\u00e4 kattokoriste. Se on edelleen olemassa ja sen voi l\u00f6yt\u00e4\u00e4 kuljeskelemalla vanhan kaupungin katuja.<\/p>\n

Postauksesta uhkaa tulla kilometrin mittainen, joten teen shoppailusta, J\u016brmalasta ja Riikan Radio- ja tv-tornista erilliset postaukset. Kuvia on muutenkin jo j\u00e4rjet\u00f6n m\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4 enk\u00e4 osaa en\u00e4\u00e4 t\u00e4st\u00e4 karsia v\u00e4hemm\u00e4ksi. Huomaatte ett\u00e4 rakennuksissa yksityiskohtien m\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4 on k\u00e4sitt\u00e4m\u00e4t\u00f6n. Osa kuvista on v\u00e4h\u00e4n heikkolaatuisia koska ne on kuvattu bussin ikkunasta, mutta yritin silti valita edustavimmat mahdolliset.<\/p>\n

\"inenglish\"<\/a><\/p>\n

This might be a good time to tell you\u00a0about our recent trip. This time we chose the traditional group travelling style. Our coach left early Sunday morning towards Helsinki where we took the ferry over to Tallinn, Estonia. Then our couch drove us via P\u00e4rnu to Riga in Latvia. Drive from Tallinn to Riga was about 7-8 hours with two stops (one short, one long break)<\/strong><\/span>.<\/p>\n

Latvia is the country of large opposites. Gap between rich and poor is quite visible. The affect of Soviet Union is very visible still, especially visually. One reason for it is the depression of 2008. Promising growth on economics was cut short,and left visible mark on the country. Many buildings in Riga (<\/strong>and whole Latvia)<\/strong><\/span> are left empty and crumbling down, so it is the dream land for urban explorers. Even some of the new buildings are left on their own devices when money run out. \u00a0For example the apartment building complex of four tower buildings tells the rough story: two of them were built, third is left as a skeleton and fourth was never even started. Even many buildings which are still in use are rather run down and in bad shape, atleast on the outside, even though there is lots of renovation going on in Riga. Common sight on the city are buildings covered in sheets, either waiting or under renovation. In the architecture you can clearly see the three periods, before, after and during the Soviet era. I am very much appealed by the playfull and fun architecture of Estonia and Latvia. Houses are not necessary very symmetrical or even look very\u00a0much “designed”. There can be odd shapes and weird angles and such. Colour choises in private housing differs very much from Finnish style, loads of bright turquoise, mint green and bright candy colours. The typical Estonian round porthole-style hallway windows are popular in Latvia too.<\/p>\n

Riga & Latvia<\/strong><\/span>
\n– Latvia is the poorest country in EU
\n– land is relatively flat and there is long seashore and beautiful beaches
\n– capital of Latvia is Riga
\n– average monthly salary is very low, only little over\u00a0650 \u20ac
\n– first time Latvia became independent in 1918, however Soviet Union joined Latvia into their regions in 1940
\n– population of Latvia is decreasing every year due to small birth rate, large death rate and large outgoing immigration, in 1990 population was over 2,5 million, now it’s less than one million
\n– old town of Riga is UNESCO World Heritage Site
\n– Riga river, where city gets it’s name has dried and there is now a road
\n– Daugava river runs through the city and Riga’s sea harbour is on it’s delta<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Sightseeing<\/strong><\/span>
\nOur schedule for Monday included guided tour in Riga. I didn’t really get much trips for Riga, but my friend tipped me about Art Nouveau area nearby the old town. This area was included in our tour, so we didn’t bother walking back there afterwards, even though there would have been amazing Art Nouveau museum<\/a>. So we missed the museum this time. There’s also lots of amazing buildings in the old town and lots of interesting things to see, but we didn’t have that much time of our own after scheduled things. The tour was slightly boring to me, because the guide was just listing very fast loads of dates and historical facts, instead of interesting anecdotes. However one funny story caught my ears. There’s a St Jacob’s church, which has a famous bell tower. According to the legend bell only tolls in three cases: when there’s enemy approaching the town, when flood approaches or when unfaithful wife walks past the church. And so the story goes that local women got so bored with the constant bell sounds they took the bell down. Apparently the current bell does not hold these kinds of magical powers but it only tolls when there’s a service on.<\/p>\n

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Ballet in Riga is somewhat famous dance theater, so I checked in advance if there was any ballet going on. Unfortunately there wasn’t any shows on suitable dates (there would have been one on Sunday evening, but we arrived too late to see that)<\/strong><\/span>. However I noticed on Sunday evening a magazine at the hotel, which listed events on Riga in April and found out there was an International Ballet Festival<\/a> going on. And to my huge surprise they had ballet gala on Monday evening. And as it turned out, we were able to buy tickets from the box office so me and mum could go and see\u00a0some international ballet stars from China, Ukraine, France, Estonia and of course Latvia. The National Opera & Ballet<\/a> of Latvia, built in 1863, is magnificent building to see on it’s own. The fabulous ceiling paintings, gold leafs and all. Unlike we did, you should book your tickets in advance, even though it seems that most Rigans seem to have a habbit of buying their tickets the day of the event (unlike people here in Finland)<\/strong><\/span>. It seems that tickets to ballet are really affordable, 5-35 \u20ac. Gala tickets were a tad pricier than that.<\/p>\n

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Black cat of Riga<\/strong><\/span>
\nWhen wandering around Riga you might notice there’s pictures of black cat every where. It’s sort of the symbol of Riga and story goes like this. Years and years ago German merchants came to town and started doing business and founded a merchants guild. There was also this Latvian succesfull merchant who really badly wanted to join the German merchants Guild. However only Germans were allowed to join in. That upset the Latvian merchant so much he put up a picture of black cat up on his roof. The cat was showing his arse towards the German merchants Guild which was right opposite to the Latvian merchants house. Of course the merchants realized what that was about and forced the Latvian merchant to turn the picture of the cat the other way around. Apparently this is\u00a0just a funny story, but the cat became the idol of the people. In reality the black cat is just a decorative design on the building. It still exists\u00a0and can be seen when walking in the old town of Riga.<\/p>\n

Post is turning into a mile long, so I will make separate posts about shopping, J\u016brmala and the Riga radio and tv tower. There’s too many photos as it is and I don’t really know how to edit more of them out. You will notice that there is enormous amount of details in the buildings. Some of the photos are not very good quality, I’m afraid. That’s because some of them were taken through the coach window, but I did try to choose the best ones anyway.<\/p>\n

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Riikan tuomiokirkko eli Pyh\u00e4n Marian katedraali \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nRiga Dome aka St Mary’s cathedral<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

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Tunnetuin latvialainen arkkitehti oli Mikhail Eisenstein joka suunnitteli mm.<\/strong><\/span>
\nt\u00e4m\u00e4n rakennuksen joka edustaa h\u00e4nen tyyli\u00e4\u00e4n ehk\u00e4 tyypillisimmill\u00e4\u00e4n. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nMost known Latvian architect was Mikhail Eisenstein which designed this<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nbuilding among many others. It represents his style perhaps at it’s most typical form.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

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Riikan ortodoksinen katedraali \/ Riga’s Orthodox Cathedral<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

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Mustap\u00e4iden veljeskunnan talo. Mustap\u00e4\u00e4t olivat naimattomia kauppiaita ja sotilaita. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nHouse of the Brotherhood of Blackheads. They were unmarried merchants and soldiers.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

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Riikan kuuluisa musta kissa. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nThe famous black cat of Riga.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

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Entiset kasarmit toimivat nyky\u00e4\u00e4n putiikkeina ja kahviloina. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nFormer military barracks are now little shops and cafes.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

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Katumuusikot soittivat suomalaisia s\u00e4velmi\u00e4 (arvatenkin oppaan vinkist\u00e4)<\/strong><\/span>
\nkun saavuimme kadulle. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nStreet musicians started playing finnish songs when we arrived to the\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nstreet (obviously tipped by our guide).\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

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Kansallisoopperan ja -baletin takkinarikkakin oli kuvaamisen arvoinen n\u00e4ky. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nEven the cloak room of the National Opera & Ballet was worth photographying.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

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Kansallisoopperan ja -baletin n\u00e4ytt\u00e4v\u00e4 katto kruunuineen. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nFlamboyant ceiling and\u00a0chandelier of the National Opera & Ballet.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

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Modernia riikalaista arkkitehtuuria. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nModern Riga architecture.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

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Neuvostoaikana rakennettu uutistoimistojen\u00a0talo on nykyisin tyhjill\u00e4\u00e4n. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nPress\u00a0agency office building, built during Soviet era, \u00a0now empty.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

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Kaupungin kanaali on entinen vallihauta. Sit\u00e4 ymp\u00e4r\u00f6i kaunis viheralue, \u00a0<\/strong><\/span>kukka-
\nistutuksia, suihkul\u00e4hteit\u00e4 jne. Kanaalissa voi my\u00f6s tehd\u00e4 pieni\u00e4 veneajeluita kes\u00e4isin. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nCity canal used to be a moat. It’s surrounded by beautiful green areas, fountains
\nand gardens.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em>In the summer time you can also take a little boat ride on the canal.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

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Pieni rautatieseisake matkalla Riikaan. \/\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>
\nLittle train stop on the way to Riga.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"riga\"<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Nyt voisi olla sopiva hetki kertoa\u00a0meid\u00e4n taannoisesta matkastamme.\u00a0T\u00e4ll\u00e4 kertaa reissasimme perinteisell\u00e4 ryhm\u00e4matka-metodilla ja vietimme alkuviikon tuulisessa ja hieman sateisessakin Riikassa, Latviassa. Matkaan l\u00e4hdimme bussilla aikaisin sunnuntai-aamuna, otimme lautan Helsingist\u00e4 Tallinnaan ja ajoimme linjabiilill\u00e4 Tallinnasta P\u00e4rnun kautta Riikaan. Bussimatka kesti noin 7-8 tuntia parin pys\u00e4hdyksen kera (yksi lyhyt, yksi pidempi paussi). Latvia on vastakohtaisuuksien maa jossa… <\/p>\n

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