{"id":11361,"date":"2016-03-29T17:45:38","date_gmt":"2016-03-29T14:45:38","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=11361"},"modified":"2016-03-29T17:45:38","modified_gmt":"2016-03-29T14:45:38","slug":"hsm16-protection-suojaus","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=11361","title":{"rendered":"HSM16: Protection \/ Suojaus"},"content":{"rendered":"

Kirjoittelin tuossa aiemmin, ett\u00e4 aioin tehd\u00e4 maaliskuun Historical Sew Monthlyyn syd\u00e4nyst\u00e4v\u00e4-neulehuivin. Mutta sitten tuli muita rojekteja ja t\u00e4hdellisempi\u00e4 hommia joten osallistunkin Suojaus-haasteeseen neuleen sijasta t\u00e4ll\u00e4 1900-luvun samettijakulla. Neulekin kyll\u00e4 valmistuu aikanaan ja saattaa jopa viel\u00e4 ehti\u00e4 t\u00e4h\u00e4nkin haasteeseen. Eih\u00e4n mik\u00e4\u00e4n kiell\u00e4 osallistumasta useammalla vaatteella.<\/p>\n

Mutta siis, se samettijakku. Hattupostauksen yhteydess\u00e4 mainitsemani Festive Attyre-blogi on tosiaan yksi suosikkiblogejani. Suurin syy t\u00e4h\u00e4n on, ett\u00e4 Jenin vaatemaku on hyvin pitk\u00e4lti samantyyppinen kuin itsell\u00e4ni ja monet h\u00e4nen tekemist\u00e4\u00e4n historiallisista asuista ovat j\u00e4\u00e4neet vahvasti mieleeni. Niin k\u00e4vi my\u00f6skin t\u00e4m\u00e4n jakun kanssa. Pitk\u00e4lti yli vuosi sitten Jen oli tehnyt upean 1900-luvun alun asun<\/a>, pohjautuen vuonna 1908 La Mode Pratique- ja De Gracieuse-lehdiss\u00e4 julkaistuun muotipiirrokseen. P\u00e4\u00e4tin ett\u00e4 jos ryhtyisin ompelemaan 1900-luvun asua, siihen kuuluisi tuollainen jakku.<\/p>\n

Kaavoitin t\u00e4m\u00e4n\u00a0k\u00e4ytt\u00e4en pohjana aiemmin piirt\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4ni tavallista jakun kaavaa. Mallia ja mittasuhteita katsoin Jenin blogissaan jakamista kuvista sek\u00e4 muotipiirroksesta. Sametti p\u00e4\u00e4tyi materiaaliksi koska olin saanut kaverilta upean v\u00e4rist\u00e4 puuvillasamettia. Se oli itseasiassa jonkinlainen teatteripuvustuksessa k\u00e4ytetty hameviritelm\u00e4 jossa oli juuri ja juuri riitt\u00e4v\u00e4sti materiaalia sek\u00e4 jakkuun ett\u00e4 siihen sopivaan hattuun. Samettiin ei voi pr\u00e4ss\u00e4t\u00e4 tukikangasta joten ostin raakapellavaa jonka ompelin miehustaan kiinni k\u00e4sin. Jouhikangas olisi ollut parempaa, mutta sit\u00e4 en t\u00e4h\u00e4n h\u00e4t\u00e4\u00e4n saanut mist\u00e4\u00e4n. Valmistumisella oli kiire aikataulu koska jakku piti saada p\u00e4\u00e4lle P\u00e4\u00e4si\u00e4isp\u00e4iv\u00e4n h\u00f6yryjunaan, joten jakusta j\u00e4i viel\u00e4 puuttumaan olilta koristeet. Aikakauden tyylin mukaisesti olkalinjoja korostettiin joko lasihelmin, koristeellisin napein tai ny\u00f6rinapein. Ne aion lis\u00e4t\u00e4 viel\u00e4 my\u00f6hemmin.<\/p>\n

Haaste:<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0Suojaus
\nKangas:<\/strong>\u00a0puuvillasametti & asetaatti-vuorikangas<\/span><\/span>
\nKaava:<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0itse kaavoitettu, pohjautuen vuoden 1908 muotipiirrokseen.
\nVuosi:<\/strong> <\/span>1908
\nTarvikkeet:<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0ompelulankaa, j\u00e4ykk\u00e4\u00e4 raakapellavaa tukikankaaksi, valmiit ny\u00f6rikoristeet etunapitukseen, vintage-lasinappi
\nKuinka historiallisesti tarkka se on?<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0Kangas on puuvillaa, tukikangas k\u00e4sinompelein kiinnitetty\u00e4 pellavaa (en saanut n\u00e4in lyhyell\u00e4 varoitusajalla hankittua oikeaa jouhikangasta tukikankaaksi)<\/strong><\/span>, vuori asetaattia, niiden osalta siis noin 65 % autenttinen. Kaava on itse piirretty, pohjautuen vuoden 1908 muotipiirrokseen ja Festive Attyre-blogin jakkuun<\/a>. Tukikangas on kiinnitetty kokonaan k\u00e4sin, muiden ompelurakenteiden autenttisuudesta ei k\u00e4sityst\u00e4. Saumat p\u00e4\u00e4asiassa ommeltu koneella, helma- ja hihak\u00e4\u00e4nteet kiinnitetty k\u00e4sin. Historiallinen autenttisuus arviolta noin 70-80%.
\nK\u00e4ytetty aika:<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0joitakin iltoja\/p\u00e4ivi\u00e4 1-2 viikon aikana (en ottanut tunneista lukua)<\/strong><\/span>
\nK\u00e4ytetty ensi kerran:<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0P\u00e4\u00e4si\u00e4issunnuntaina h\u00f6yryjuna-ajelulla
\nKustannukset:\u00a0<\/span><\/strong>tukikangas-pellava n. 7 \u20ac, muut materiaalit ilmaisia ja\/tai valmiina varastossa, yhteens\u00e4 max 15 \u20ac (olkap\u00e4ille tulee my\u00f6hemmin viel\u00e4 isot helmet tai ny\u00f6rinapit, jotka joudun ostamaan)<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\"inenglish\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Earlier I was telling you about my plans for March challenge of\u00a0Historical Sew Monthly. I was going to knit the sontag scarf, but other projects and more important things came along. So instead of the scarf, I’m joining in the Protection-challenge with this 1900’s velvet jacket. Don’t worry, the scarf will finish eventually, it might even finish early enough for this same challenge. There is no rules forbidding joining in with several entries.<\/p>\n

But now then, the velvet jacket. At the hat post I mentioned that Festive Attyre blog is one of my favourites. Biggest reason for this is that Jen’s taste in clothes seems to be very close to mine. Many of her historical outfits are the style I love and have burned into my mind very strongly. Same thing happened with this jacket. Over a year ago Jen made this gorgeous 1900’s outfit<\/a>, based on fashion illustration published in 1908 in La Mode Pratique and De Gracieuse magazines. I decided then, that if I ever make 1900’s outfit, this jacket is going to be part of it.<\/p>\n

I drafted my own pattern, using my old jacket pattern as a base. I studied Jen’s jacket at her blog and the fashion drawing to get the proportions right. Velvet was chosen as a material by chance, I recently got this lovely blue cotton velvet from my friend. It was actually some sort of theater costume skirt, which I took apart and reused. Just barely enough material for the jacket and matching hat. You can’t really use fusible interfacing on velvet, so I bought some raw linen fabric which I sewed by hand on bodice. Hair canvas would have been better, but I could not get it anywhere this fast (it doesn’t seem to be very well available in Finland anymore). I was in a rush to finish this jacket, because I wanted to wear it for the steam train ride on Easter Day. That’s why it’s still missing it’s shoulder decorations. According to the style of the era, shoulder lines\u00a0were often decorated with either beads, decorative ball shaped buttons or cord buttons. I am going to add those later when I get the chance.<\/p>\n

The Challenge:<\/span>\u00a0<\/strong>Protection
\nFabric:<\/strong>\u00a0<\/span>cotton\u00a0velvet & acetate lining
\nPattern: <\/strong><\/span>drafted by myself according to 1908 fashion illustration
\nYear: <\/strong>1908<\/span><\/span>
\nNotions<\/strong>:\u00a0<\/b><\/span>sewing thread, raw linen fabric, ready-made black braid decorations, vintage glass button
\nHow historically accurate is it?<\/strong> <\/span>Fabric is cotton\u00a0velvet, support material is handsewn raw linen fabric (I was not able to get proper hair canvas with such short notice)<\/strong><\/span>, lining is acetate so I would say fabrics are around 65 % historically authentic (HA)<\/strong><\/span>. Pattern is self-drafted, based on 1908 fashion illustration and jacket\u00a0made<\/a> according to the same illustration by Jen at Festive Attyre. Interfacing is completely handsewn, I’m not so sure about the authenticity of other seam constructions. Seams are mainly sewn by machine, sleeves and hemline are hemmed by hand. My estimation on total authenticity is around 70-80 %
\nHours to Complete:<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0several evenings\/days during 1-2 weeks (I did not count the hours)<\/strong><\/span>
\nFirst worn:<\/span> <\/strong>Easter Sunday on steam train ride<\/span>
\nTotal Cost:<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/b>linen interlining about 7 \u20ac, other materials were free and\/or from the stash, total estimation max 15 \u20ac (later I will buy either large beads or cord buttons for the shoulder decoration)<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\"190810\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Vuoden 1908 muotipiirros De Gracieuse-lehdess\u00e4 \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nThe 1908 fashion illustration in De Gracieuse magazine.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"samettijakku1\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Muistuttelen opiskeluajoilta uudelleen mieleeni\u00a0r\u00e4\u00e4t\u00e4litekniikoita, kappaleet olisi<\/strong><\/span>
\nollut ehk\u00e4 parempi kiinnitt\u00e4\u00e4 tavallisin harsinpistoin, mutta tulin nyt k\u00e4ytt\u00e4neeksi<\/strong><\/span>
\nt\u00e4t\u00e4 harsinpiston muunnelmaa\u00a0koko miehustaan, en ainoastaan kaulukseen. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nI’m just\u00a0re-learning the tailoring techniques, it might have been better to<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nuse ordinary running or basting stitch to attach the interfacing, but I used the<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\npad stitch for the whole thing (not just collar) this time.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"samettijakku2\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"samettijakku3\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Sametissa n\u00e4kyv\u00e4t hennot juovat ovat edellisen vaatteen saumoja, eniten takana.
\nSiin\u00e4 er\u00e4s sametin\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>varjopuolista,vanhojen saumojen hankala h\u00e4vitett\u00e4vyys.
\nH\u00f6yrytt\u00e4m\u00e4ll\u00e4\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>sain ne l\u00e4hes n\u00e4kym\u00e4tt\u00f6miin, mutta erottuvat kyll\u00e4 kuvissa
\nja l\u00e4helt\u00e4 katsottaessa. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nThere is very fine lines here and there in the velvet, mostly at the back. They are
\nseamlines on the previous\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em>garment. That’s the downside of velvet, it’s difficult to
\nmake old seamlines to \u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em>disappear. I managed pretty well on it with steaming,
\nbut they are still visible in\u00a0photos\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em>and looking up close.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"samettijakku4\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Jostakin syyst\u00e4 alkuper\u00e4isen kaavan t\u00e4ydellinen istuvuus sel\u00e4ss\u00e4 muuttui t\u00e4ss\u00e4\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>
\nvaatteessa kupruiluksi. Lis\u00e4ksi vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6 on hiukan liian v\u00e4lj\u00e4 (olen laihtunut), joten<\/strong><\/span>
\npient\u00e4 istuvuuskorjausta pit\u00e4\u00e4 viel\u00e4 tehd\u00e4. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nFor some reason the perfect fit of the original pattern turned into these wrinkles<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\non the velvet. Also the waist is slightly too loose (I’ve lost some weight), so\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nI\u00a0have to make small fitting alterations later.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Kirjoittelin tuossa aiemmin, ett\u00e4 aioin tehd\u00e4 maaliskuun Historical Sew Monthlyyn syd\u00e4nyst\u00e4v\u00e4-neulehuivin. Mutta sitten tuli muita rojekteja ja t\u00e4hdellisempi\u00e4 hommia joten osallistunkin Suojaus-haasteeseen neuleen sijasta t\u00e4ll\u00e4 1900-luvun samettijakulla. Neulekin kyll\u00e4 valmistuu aikanaan ja saattaa jopa viel\u00e4 ehti\u00e4 t\u00e4h\u00e4nkin haasteeseen. Eih\u00e4n mik\u00e4\u00e4n kiell\u00e4 osallistumasta useammalla vaatteella. Mutta siis, se samettijakku. Hattupostauksen yhteydess\u00e4 mainitsemani Festive Attyre-blogi on tosiaan… <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":11398,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[18,27,256,7,13],"tags":[151,254,253,68,229,126],"class_list":{"0":"post-11361","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","6":"hentry","7":"category-asut","8":"category-evilompelee","9":"category-historical-sew-monthly-2016","10":"category-projektit","11":"category-vaatehtimo","12":"tag-costume-history","13":"tag-historical-sew-monthly-2016","14":"tag-living-history","15":"tag-outfits","16":"tag-re-enactment","17":"tag-sewing-other-crafts","19":"fallback-thumbnail"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/samettijakku2.jpg?fit=600%2C923","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-2Xf","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11361","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=11361"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11361\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":11408,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11361\/revisions\/11408"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/11398"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=11361"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=11361"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=11361"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}