{"id":11300,"date":"2016-02-29T19:31:46","date_gmt":"2016-02-29T17:31:46","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=11300"},"modified":"2016-03-01T19:14:43","modified_gmt":"2016-03-01T17:14:43","slug":"hsm16-2-laskokset-tucks-and-pleats","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=11300","title":{"rendered":"HSM16-2: Laskokset \/ Tucks and pleats"},"content":{"rendered":"

Helmikuu on ollut jokseenkin kiireist\u00e4 aikaa joten t\u00e4m\u00e4n kuun historialliselle ompeluhaasteelle ei paljon aikaa j\u00e4\u00e4nyt k\u00e4ytett\u00e4v\u00e4ksi. Tiesin t\u00e4m\u00e4n jo etuk\u00e4teen joten teht\u00e4v\u00e4ksi valikoitui mahdollisimman nopeasti ja helposti ommeltava vaate: gibson girl-kauden pusero. Pidemmitt\u00e4 puheitta, menn\u00e4\u00e4n asiaan. Muutoin pusero on aikatavalla peruskauraa, mutta kaulus on tyylin mukaan varsin korkea ja vaatii siksi tuentaa. 1800-luvun lopussa ja 1900-luvun alussa kauluksiin k\u00e4ytettiin erityisi\u00e4 kaulustukia jotka kiinnitettiin joko kauluksen sis\u00e4\u00e4n tai nurjalle, kauluksen rakenteesta riippuen. Nykyisin niit\u00e4 on todella vaikea saada mist\u00e4\u00e4n (ellet ole aivan tosi onnekas)<\/strong><\/span>, mutta onneksi ihan hyv\u00e4t korvikkeet\u00a0voi valmistaa vaikka itse hattujen valmistuksessa k\u00e4ytett\u00e4v\u00e4st\u00e4 langalla p\u00e4\u00e4lystetyst\u00e4 ohuesta metallilangasta (millinery wire)<\/strong><\/span>. Kaulus kiinnittyy miehustaan toisella puolen p\u00e4\u00e4ntiet\u00e4, olalla ja\u00a0niskassa pienten nepparien avulla.<\/p>\n

Haaste:<\/strong>\u00a0<\/span>Laskokset
\nKangas:<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0kuosiin kudottu puuvillasekoite-paitakangas
\nKaava:<\/strong>\u00a0<\/span>itse kaavoitettu perustuen pitk\u00e4lti n\u00e4ihin<\/a> kahteen<\/a> kuvaan.
\nVuosi:<\/strong><\/span> n.\u00a01900-1910
\nTarvikkeet:<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0ompelulankaa, helmi\u00e4isnapit, kaulustuet hattulangasta, nepparit, paksua puuvillalankaa kiristysnauhoihin, pala nypl\u00e4tty\u00e4 pitsi\u00e4 kaulukseen
\nKuinka historiallisesti tarkka se on?<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0Kangas on puuvillasekoitetta jossa on v\u00e4h\u00e4n elastaania (fakta jonka tajusin VASTA\u00a0ostettuani\u00a0kankaan)<\/strong><\/span> mutta n\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 varsin autenttiselta liituraitoineen ja kudottuine kuvioraitoineen, kaava on piirretty alkuper\u00e4isten mallien mukaan omilla mitoillani, napit ovat aitoa helmi\u00e4ist\u00e4 joskin erikoisen muotoiset. Saumat ovat kaikki katesaumoja, osa koneella ja osa k\u00e4sin ommeltuja. Sanoisin ett\u00e4 pusero vastaa noin 80% aitoa.
\nK\u00e4ytetty aika:<\/strong>\u00a0<\/span>Noin\u00a0kaksi iltaa
\nK\u00e4ytetty ensi kerran:<\/strong>\u00a0<\/span>Ei viel\u00e4 k\u00e4ytetty, ehk\u00e4 kes\u00e4ll\u00e4
\nKustannukset:<\/span> <\/strong>noin 9 \u20ac (napit, nepparit, pitsi, puuvillalanka ja hattulanka varastosta)<\/strong><\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\"inenglish\"<\/a><\/p>\n

February has been rather busy time so there was not much time to use for the second installment of Historical Sew Monthly. I knew this already in advance so I had to choose something quick and easy: gibson girl shirtwaist. Without further ado, let’s get to the business. This shirtwaist is\u00a0following the basic sewing techniques except the collar, which is high, according to the current style. That’s why it requires some support. At the late 1800’s and early 1900’s there were special collar stays which were sewn on the reverse side of collar or inside, depending on the style of collar. These days it’s pretty impossible to find them anywhere (unless you’re really lucky)<\/strong><\/span>, but thankfully it’s possible to make adequate replicas from millinery wire. Collar is attached to the bodice on the other side of neck, on the shoulder and at the back with little snap buttons.<\/p>\n

The Challenge:<\/span>\u00a0<\/strong><\/em>Tucks and pleats
\nFabric:<\/strong><\/em><\/span>\u00a0cotton blend\u00a0pinstripe shirt fabric
\nPattern: <\/strong><\/em><\/span>drafted by myself mainly according to these<\/a>\u00a0two<\/a> photos.
\nYear: <\/strong><\/em><\/span>about 1900-1910
\n<\/em>Notions<\/strong>:<\/em>\u00a0<\/b><\/span>sewing thread, mother-of-pearl buttons, collar stays\u00a0from millinery wire, snap buttons, thick cotton yarn for drawstrings, short piece of bobbin lace on the collar
\nHow historically accurate is it?<\/strong><\/span> Fabric is cotton blend\u00a0with little bit of elastic (fact that I noticed AFTER purchasing it)<\/strong><\/span> but it looks pretty authentic with pinstripes and woven pattern stripes, pattern is drafted according to original styles to match my measurements, buttons are real mother-of-pearl even though shape is unusual. Seams are all french seams, some sewn by hand, some by machine.\u00a0I would say this shirtwaist\u00a0is about 80% PA.
\nHours to Complete:<\/strong><\/em>\u00a0<\/span>About two\u00a0evenings
\nFirst worn:<\/span> <\/strong><\/em>Not worn yet, perhaps during upcoming summer
\nTotal Cost:<\/b><\/em><\/span>\u00a0about\u00a09 \u20ac (buttons, snap buttons, lace, cotton yarn and millinery wire from stash)<\/strong><\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\"shirtwaist1\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"shirtwaist2\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"shirtwaist3\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"shirtwaist4\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"shirtwaist5\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"shirtwaist6\"<\/a><\/p>\n

T\u00e4ss\u00e4 tekem\u00e4ni kaulustuet, n\u00e4ytt\u00e4v\u00e4t aika aidoilta.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>
\nVinkin niiden tekemiseen itse l\u00f6ysin Festive Attyre-blogista<\/a>. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nHere are the collar stays I made, looking pretty authentic.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nI found the tip for making them from Festive Attyre blog<\/a>.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Helmikuu on ollut jokseenkin kiireist\u00e4 aikaa joten t\u00e4m\u00e4n kuun historialliselle ompeluhaasteelle ei paljon aikaa j\u00e4\u00e4nyt k\u00e4ytett\u00e4v\u00e4ksi. Tiesin t\u00e4m\u00e4n jo etuk\u00e4teen joten teht\u00e4v\u00e4ksi valikoitui mahdollisimman nopeasti ja helposti ommeltava vaate: gibson girl-kauden pusero. Pidemmitt\u00e4 puheitta, menn\u00e4\u00e4n asiaan. Muutoin pusero on aikatavalla peruskauraa, mutta kaulus on tyylin mukaan varsin korkea ja vaatii siksi tuentaa. 1800-luvun lopussa ja… <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[27,256,12,7,150],"tags":[151,214,254,126],"class_list":["post-11300","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-evilompelee","category-historical-sew-monthly-2016","category-munelama","category-projektit","category-pukuhistoria","tag-costume-history","tag-fashion-history","tag-historical-sew-monthly-2016","tag-sewing-other-crafts","has-post-thumbnail","fallback-thumbnail"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-2Wg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11300","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=11300"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11300\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":11318,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11300\/revisions\/11318"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=11300"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=11300"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=11300"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}