{"id":112,"date":"2008-12-21T16:35:00","date_gmt":"2008-12-21T16:35:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=112"},"modified":"2008-12-21T16:35:00","modified_gmt":"2008-12-21T16:35:00","slug":"vaatehistorian-omituisuudet","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=112","title":{"rendered":"Vaatehistorian omituisuudet"},"content":{"rendered":"


Aika ajoin syventyess\u00e4ni pukuhistoriaan, t\u00f6rm\u00e4\u00e4n pieniin omituisuuksi<\/span>in joista ei heti uskoisi ett\u00e4 tuollaistakin on oikeasti k\u00e4ytetty. T\u00e4ss\u00e4p\u00e4 pieni kokoelma erikoisuuksia pukeutumisen historiasta.
<\/span>
Koppakuoriaiset koristeena<\/span><\/span>
Joskus kes\u00e4isin t\u00f6rm\u00e4\u00e4n maalla upeasti kimaltavaan kuolleeseen koppakuoriaiseen ja mietin mitenk\u00e4h\u00e4n tuonkin upean otuksen voisi ikuistaa? Voisiko siit\u00e4 tehd\u00e4 jotakin? No joku on jo senkin keksinyt. 1800-luvulla sateenkaaren v\u00e4reiss\u00e4 kimaltavat kovakuoriais<\/span>ten kilvet olivat suosittuja koristeita. Intiassa, erityisesti Madrasin alueella valmistettiin upeita <\/span>ko<\/span>ris<\/span>teita kankaisiin joita tuotiin eurooppalaisille markkinoille. Nyky\u00e4\u00e4nkin kuoria voi ostaa kirjonta-tarvikkeita myyvist\u00e4 nettikaupoista. Kuori on kovaa kynsim\u00e4ist\u00e4 ainetta ja kest\u00e4\u00e4 hyvin kirjailua. Ennen kirjailua kuoret tulee h\u00f6yrytt\u00e4\u00e4 viitisen minuuttia jolloin ne pehmenev\u00e4t ja niihin on he<\/span>lppo tehd\u00e4 rei\u00e4t. Rei\u00e4t on syyt\u00e4 tehd\u00e4 kerralla kaikkiin ennen kirjailun aloittamista. Joidenkin mielest\u00e4 k<\/span>oppikset voivat olla inhottavia, mutta kun katsoo kuvia koppiski<\/span>rjailu<\/span>sta ei voi kuin huokaista h\u00e4mm\u00e4styksest\u00e4 miten upeita ne ovat.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Kovakuoriaisten kilpi\u00e4 silkille kirjailtuna. Kuva<\/a><\/span><\/span>
Beetles on silk. Pic.<\/a><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n

P\u00e4\u00e4lle neulatut vaatteet
<\/span>Ompelijana paljon vaatteita asiakkaille sovittaneena ja nuppineulojen ep\u00e4mukavuudesta vakuuttuneena en heti olisi uskonut, <\/span>ett\u00e4 joku voisi k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 vaatetta joka o<\/span><\/span>n puettu p\u00e4\u00e4lle nuppineuloin. Vaan onpa sekin tehty. Erityisesti Tudoreiden kaud<\/span><\/span>ella <\/span><\/span><\/span>1400-1500-lukujen vaihteessa, mutta my\u00f6s my\u00f6hemmin naiset k\u00e4yttiv\u00e4t pukuja joiden yl\u00e4osa ny\u00f6ritettiin kiinni etuosasta. Ny\u00f6ritys piti saada piiloon ja siihen k\u00e4ytettiin kolmiomaista panelia (<\/span>stomacher<\/span>) joka usein kiinnitettiin pukuun nuppineuloilla. Neulat saattoivat olla reilusti n\u00e4kyviss\u00e4 (katso kuva) puvun sivuilla tai piilotettu p\u00e4\u00e4lle puettavan jakun alle. Alkuun paneli oli leve<\/span><\/span><\/span>\u00e4 l\u00e4hes kainalosta kainaloon mutta v\u00e4hitellen se alkoi pienenty\u00e4. Usein se oli my\u00f6s raskaasti kori<\/span><\/span><\/span>steltu helmin, pitsein, nauhoin ja kirjailuin.<\/p>\n

<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Jane Seymour, kultainen neularivi oikeassa sivussa. <\/span>Kuva.<\/a>
Jane Seymour, golden pins on right side. <\/span>Pic.<\/a>
<\/span><\/div>\n


Hiuksista tehdyt korut
<\/span>El\u00e4inten karvoja on k\u00e4ytetty ammoisista ajoista vaatteiden tekemiseen. Lampaan ja angoravuohen villa n\u00e4ist\u00e4 ne yleisimm\u00e4t. El\u00e4inten ja ihmisten karvoista on tehty my\u00f6s soitti<\/span><\/span><\/span>mia (mm. viulunkielet) ja peruukkeja. Harvemmin tunnettuja ovat kuitenkin etenkin viktoria<\/span><\/span><\/span>an<\/span><\/span><\/span>isella aj<\/span><\/span><\/span>alla suositut hiuksista valmistetut korut. Mik\u00e4p\u00e4 romanttisempaa kuin teett\u00e4\u00e4 koru rakkaan hiuskiehkurasta ja pit\u00e4\u00e4 sit\u00e4 p\u00e4ivitt\u00e4in rakkauden tunnustuksena. Korujen valmistajat olivat taitavia k\u00e4sity\u00f6l\u00e4isi\u00e4 joiden n\u00e4pp\u00e4riss\u00e4 sormissa valmistui mit\u00e4 uskomattomampia niin hiuksista kuin hevosen jouhistakin punottuja luomuksia. Pula-aikana hiuksista valmistettiin Suomessa my\u00f6s kankaita.<\/p>\n

<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Vaaleista hiuksista punottu rintakoru, 1870-luku<\/span>. Kuva<\/span>.<\/a><\/span><\/span> <\/span>
Brooch made of blond hair, 1870’s<\/span>.<\/span> Pic<\/span>.<\/a><\/span><\/span> <\/div>\n


Paperikeng\u00e4t
<\/span>Muotilehdiss\u00e4 ja runwaylla on viimevuosina n\u00e4hty paperista muotoiltuja vaatteita. Suomessakin saa jo tilata paperisen h\u00e4\u00e4puvun. Sota-aikana 40-luvulla kun nahasta ja kankaista oli pulaa oli keksitt\u00e4v\u00e4 edullisia raaka-aineita. Kenk\u00e4teollisuus otti k\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00f6n sen<\/span><\/span> mit\u00e4 Suomessa oli reilusti tarjolla, puuta ja paperia. Paperista valmistettiin kodin tekstiilej\u00e4 kuten verhoja, p\u00f6yt\u00e4liinnoja ja lakanoita, mutta my\u00f6s kenki\u00e4. Paperikengiss\u00e4 oli yleens\u00e4 puupohja eiv\u00e4tk\u00e4 ne kest\u00e4neet sadetta. Paperikeng\u00e4t eiv\u00e4t olleet kovin kest\u00e4v\u00e4t muutenkaan, siksi niit\u00e4 on s\u00e4ilynyt j\u00e4lkipolvien ihailtavaksi vain v\u00e4h\u00e4n.<\/p>\n

<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Paperinarusta tehdyt keng\u00e4t, 1940-luku. Kuva<\/a>.<\/span><\/span>
Shoes made of woven paperstring, 1940’s. Pic<\/a>.<\/span><\/span><\/div>\n

Jos tied\u00e4t viel\u00e4 jonkun erikoisuuden pukuhistoriasta, kerro toki siit\u00e4 minulle ja muille blogini lukijoille keskustelulootassa! Kiitos =)<\/p>\n

ENGLISH SUMMARY<\/span>
Every now and then when digging into costume history I bump into littl<\/span>e e<\/span>ccentries. So heres a little collection of oddities in costume history.<\/span>

Beetles as decoration<\/span>
Sometimes in summertime I can find dead jewel beetles on the groun<\/span>d wondering how could I save that pretty little thing. Well, someone already did that. In 1800’s jewel beetles were popular decoration in clothing. Fantastic fabrics were made especially in Madras, India and brought to european market. Even now you can buy pretty beetle shells from online sho<\/span>ps. Shells are similar to nails and rather strong material. Before use you should steam them about<\/span> f<\/span>ive minutes to make them soften so you can make wholes for sewing. Some think beetles are disgusting insects but when you look at the photos take of beetle embroydery you can only sigh how amazing they look.<\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Kuoriaisilla koristeltu viktoriaaninen puku. <\/span>Kuva.<\/a>
Victorian dress with beetle embroidery. <\/span>Pic.<\/a> <\/span><\/div>\n


Pinned up clothes<\/span><\/span>
As seamstress I never would have thought someone could wear dress that is pinned on. But that has been done aswell! Especially durin Tudors’ time in the turning of 1400 and 1500 women wore dresses that were laced in front. Lacing needed to be covered triangular pi<\/span>ece called stomacher that was often pinned on. Sometimes pins were visible and sometimes hidden under jacket.
<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Puvun kolmiomainen etupaneli, 1700-luku. <\/span>Kuva.<\/a>
Stomacher from 1700’s. <\/span>Pic.<\/a><\/span>

<\/a><\/div>\n

Jewelry made of hair<\/span>
Animal hair has been used for ages to make clothing. Sheep and angora goat fur being the most common. Animal and human hair has also used to make for example instruments and whigs. Not so well-known items are jewelry made of hair, that were popular especially during victorian period. What more romantic way to show your love than get hairlocket from your lover and have jewelry made of it. These jewelry makers were skilled people and their product were amazing woven artwork.<\/span> During recession in Finland human hair was also used for fabrics.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Hiuksista tai hevosen jouhista<\/span><\/span> punottu rannekoru, 1840-luku. <\/span>Kuva<\/a>.<\/span>
Bracelet made of human or horse hair, 1840’s. <\/span>Pic<\/a>.<\/span><\/span>
<\/span><\/div>\n


Shoes made of paper<\/span>
On fashion magazines and on runway we have seen paper clothes in past years. And here in Finland you can also order wedding dress made of paper. During war in 1940’s we had shortage of leather and fabrics we had to use other cheaper materials. Shoe industry took what was plenty available here in Finland: wood and paper. Paper was used to make house hold items like curtains, table cloths and sheets but also shoes. Paper shoes had wooden soles and they didn’t like rain. Paper shoes weren’t wery durable otherwise either. That’s why there isn’t many pairs left for us to look at. It was very difficult to find pictures of them, managed to find only one.<\/p>\n

If you know any other little oddities in costume and fashion history, please do tell about it to me and other readers of my blog in the conversation box! Thank you!<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n