{"id":11015,"date":"2016-01-27T15:30:42","date_gmt":"2016-01-27T13:30:42","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=11015"},"modified":"2016-01-27T15:58:12","modified_gmt":"2016-01-27T13:58:12","slug":"hsm16-1-viivyttely-procrastination","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=11015","title":{"rendered":"HSM16-1: Viivyttely \/ Procrastination"},"content":{"rendered":"

T\u00e4m\u00e4 puku p\u00e4\u00e4tyi Historical Sew Monthlyn viivyttelyhaasteeseen, koska olin suunnitellut sen\u00a0tekemist\u00e4 jo parisen vuotta. Olen aikonut osallistua huhtikuussa taas L’Amusetten kev\u00e4ttanssiaisiin ja halusin sinne tietysti jotakin uutta p\u00e4\u00e4lle pantavaa. Aika kuluu nopsaan ja t\u00e4m\u00e4n alle pit\u00e4\u00e4 sitten viel\u00e4 tehd\u00e4 uusi aluspaita, koska aiemmin tekem\u00e4ss\u00e4ni on liian pieni p\u00e4\u00e4ntie ja se n\u00e4kyy t\u00e4m\u00e4n alta. Lis\u00e4ksi tarvitsen ainakin yhden alushameen, mahdollisesti kaksi, pepputyynyn (eli rumpin tai bumrollin, jonka jo tekaisinkin)<\/strong> <\/span>ja mahdollisesti viel\u00e4 jonkinlaisen kureliivinkin. Vaikka t\u00e4m\u00e4 itse puku valmistuikin kohtalaisen nopeasti niin ainakin tuo korsetti vaatii viel\u00e4 aikaa jonkin verran valmistuakseen. Kuvissa puvun alla maltillinen rump jonka pistin kasaan yhdess\u00e4 illassa vanhasta k\u00e4sinkudotusta pellavalakanasta ja puuvillavanusta.<\/p>\n

Haaste:<\/strong> <\/span>Viivyttely
\nKangas:<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0polyesteri 70% puuvilla 30%, kaksi voileeverhoa yhteens\u00e4 noin 5 m, pala harmaata silkkikangasta
\nKaava:<\/strong> <\/span>Norah Waugh’in kirjasta The Cut of Women’s clothes 1600-1930
\nVuosi:<\/strong><\/span> n. 1770-1780
\nTarvikkeet:<\/strong><\/span> pellavaista nypl\u00e4yslankaa ompeluun, vintage-silkkilankaa vy\u00f6n ompeluun, nelis\u00e4ikeist\u00e4 kalalankaa kiristysny\u00f6reihin
\nKuinka historiallisesti tarkka se on?<\/strong><\/span> Kankaan osalta ei ollenkaan, sen olisi pit\u00e4nyt olla kokonaan puuvillaa tai ehk\u00e4 silkki\u00e4. Olkainten p\u00e4\u00e4ntiesaumaa lukuunottamatta kaikki saumat ommeltu k\u00e4sin pellavalangalla. Vy\u00f6 ommeltu silkkilangalla. Saumat katesaumoja, hihasauma olalla ommeltu olkainkappaleiden v\u00e4liin. Vy\u00f6 on hienolaatuista dupionsilkki\u00e4 jota ei k\u00e4sitt\u00e4\u00e4kseni viel\u00e4 1700-luvulla tunnettu, kangas on kuitenkin sile\u00e4mp\u00e4\u00e4 kuin perusdupion, joten menettelee.\u00a0Arvioisin ett\u00e4 puku on noin 2\/3 autenttinen.
\nK\u00e4ytetty aika:<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0Noin kolme viikkoa iltaisin tv:n \u00e4\u00e4ress\u00e4
\nK\u00e4ytetty ensi kerran:<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0K\u00e4ytet\u00e4\u00e4n luultavasti ensikerran L’Amuseten kev\u00e4ttanssiaisissa huhtikuussa.
\nKustannukset:<\/strong><\/span> verhot 10 \u20ac, vy\u00f6kangas saatu ilmaiseksi asiakkaalta, langat varastosta<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\"inenglish\"<\/a><\/p>\n

This dress ended up on the HSM16: Procrastination challenge because I have been planning on making it for couple years. I’m going to attend on L’Amusette Spring ball again this year, so obviously I wanted something new to wear. Time flies by and I still have to make a new shift under this, because the one I made last summer has too small neckline. I also need atleast one new petticoat, possibly two, butt enhancer (aka rump or bumroll, which I already made)<\/strong> <\/span>and possibly even some sort of stays. Even though this dress was quite easy and fast to make, atleast the stays will take some time to make. In the photos there’s quite modest rump under the dress. I put it together in one evening with old handwoven linen sheet and cotton wadding.<\/p>\n

The Challenge:<\/strong><\/em><\/span> Procrastination
\nFabric:<\/strong><\/em>\u00a0polyester 70% cotton 30%, two<\/span>\u00a0voilee curtains<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/em><\/span>total about 5 m, small piece of gray silk fabric
\nPattern:<\/span>\u00a0<\/strong><\/em>from Norah Waugh’s book the Cut of Women’s clothes 1600-1930
\nYear:<\/span> <\/strong><\/em>about 1770-1780
\n<\/em>Notions<\/strong>:<\/em><\/span>\u00a0<\/b>linen bobbin yarn for sewing, vintage silk thread for sash, 4-ply heavy duty\u00a0cotton yarn for\u00a0drawstrings
\nHow historically accurate is it?<\/strong> <\/span>Fabric is totally not accurate, it should have been 100% cotton or perhaps silk. All seams sewn by hand\u00a0with linen thread,\u00a0except two short ones on neckline. Sash sewn with silk thread. Seams are flat-felled seams, sleeve on the shoulder is sewn between two layers of shoulder piece. Sash is fine dupion silk, which, as far as I understand, didn’t exist in 1700’s. However the quality is finer than the usual dupion quality, so it will do. I would say it’s\u00a0about 2\/3 periodically authentic.
\nHours to Complete:<\/strong><\/em>\u00a0About three weeks of<\/span><\/span>\u00a0<\/span>evenings by the tv
\nFirst worn: <\/strong><\/em><\/span>Probably will be worn first time at L’Amusette Spring Ball in April.
\nTotal Cost:<\/b><\/em> curtains\u00a010 \u20ac, belt fabric free gift from customer, yarns from the stash<\/span><\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"chemisegown1\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"chemisegown2\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"chemisegown3\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"rump\"<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

T\u00e4m\u00e4 puku p\u00e4\u00e4tyi Historical Sew Monthlyn viivyttelyhaasteeseen, koska olin suunnitellut sen\u00a0tekemist\u00e4 jo parisen vuotta. Olen aikonut osallistua huhtikuussa taas L’Amusetten kev\u00e4ttanssiaisiin ja halusin sinne tietysti jotakin uutta p\u00e4\u00e4lle pantavaa. Aika kuluu nopsaan ja t\u00e4m\u00e4n alle pit\u00e4\u00e4 sitten viel\u00e4 tehd\u00e4 uusi aluspaita, koska aiemmin tekem\u00e4ss\u00e4ni on liian pieni p\u00e4\u00e4ntie ja se n\u00e4kyy t\u00e4m\u00e4n alta. Lis\u00e4ksi tarvitsen… <\/p>\n

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