{"id":10992,"date":"2016-01-08T10:00:12","date_gmt":"2016-01-08T08:00:12","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=10992"},"modified":"2016-01-10T03:38:20","modified_gmt":"2016-01-10T01:38:20","slug":"tyon-alla-chemise-a-la-reine-working-on-chemise-a-la-reine","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=10992","title":{"rendered":"Ty\u00f6n alla: Chemise a la Reine \/ Working on Chemise a la Reine"},"content":{"rendered":"

Nyt kun tuli ryhdytty\u00e4 tuohon Historical Sew Monthlyyn, niin piti sitten ottaa heti h\u00e4rk\u00e4\u00e4 eli chemise a la reine\u00e4 sarvista. Olin jo aiemmin syksyll\u00e4 ostanut sopivaksi kuvittelemaani ohutta sekoitekangasta\u00a0niinkin eksoottisesta paikasta kuin Ikean verho-osastolta. Malliverhona roikkunut kappale oli kuitenkin aavistuksen\u00a0erilaista kangasta kuin kotona paketista paljastunut heikosti kiiltelev\u00e4 ja kova 70% polyesteri\u00e4 ja 30% puuvillaa sis\u00e4lt\u00e4v\u00e4 verhokangas. T\u00e4m\u00e4 niin sanotusti latisti tunnelman, enk\u00e4 saanut pukua tulille. Joulukuussa kuitenkin\u00a0pistin p\u00f6kk\u00f6\u00e4 pes\u00e4\u00e4n ja pesin kankaan siin\u00e4 toivossa, ett\u00e4 kovuus ja kiilto hiukan siit\u00e4 talttuisivat.<\/p>\n

Ja talttuivathan ne ihan just sen verran, ett\u00e4 kelpuutin kankaan chemiseen (akuutilla joulunj\u00e4lkeisell\u00e4 rahapulalla saattoi olla osuutta asiaan)<\/strong><\/span>. Kaavana k\u00e4ytin yst\u00e4v\u00e4n kirjasta bongaamaani Norah Waughin chemise gownin kaavaa, jonka avulla laskin kappaleiden mitat itselleni sopivammiksi. Lis\u00e4sin aavistuksen mittaa ymp\u00e4ryyteen ja pituuteen, jotta puvun helma riitt\u00e4isi maahan saakka. My\u00f6s hihan pituuteen lis\u00e4sin pikkuisen mittaa. Ompelun apuna k\u00e4ytin Maijan<\/a> huolellisesti omasta puvustaan laatimaa ompeluraporttia<\/a>. Siit\u00e4 oli suuresti hy\u00f6ty\u00e4 sill\u00e4 valitettavasti Maijan itsens\u00e4 apuna k\u00e4ytt\u00e4m\u00e4 nettisivu ei ole en\u00e4\u00e4 saatavilla. Maija k\u00e4ytti omaan pukuunsa 4 verhoa, mutta min\u00e4 ajattelin p\u00e4rj\u00e4t\u00e4 kahdella. Niist\u00e4 pit\u00e4isi riitt\u00e4\u00e4 tarpeeksi leveytt\u00e4 Waughin kaavan mittojen perusteella. N\u00e4ht\u00e4v\u00e4ksi j\u00e4\u00e4, pit\u00e4\u00e4k\u00f6 se paikkansa.<\/p>\n

Suosituimmat v\u00e4rit huivivy\u00f6lle ja hihojen ruseteille n\u00e4ytt\u00e4v\u00e4t olleen vaaleansininen ja vaaleanpunainen, sek\u00e4 1770-luvulla\u00a0ett\u00e4 nyt. Itse en l\u00e4mpene oikein kummallekaan v\u00e4rille (ihan liikaa kastemekko-viboja)<\/strong><\/span> joten seuraava teht\u00e4v\u00e4 onkin sitten etsi\u00e4 omaa silm\u00e4\u00e4 miellytt\u00e4v\u00e4, suhteellisen periodi-sopiva kangas siihen. R\u00f6yhel\u00f6j\u00e4k\u00e4\u00e4n en t\u00e4h\u00e4n pukuun aikonut laittaa vaikka ne olivatkin tuolloin kovin suosittuja. N\u00e4in rintavana henkil\u00f6n\u00e4 koen niiden vain suurentavan rintamusta vaikka alla olisi kureliivikin. Ja siit\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4st\u00e4\u00e4nkin sujuvalla aasinsillalla siihen ongelmaan, ett\u00e4 mit\u00e4 ihmett\u00e4 t\u00e4m\u00e4n alle puetaan? Mutta palataan siihen toisella kertaa.<\/p>\n

\"inenglish\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Now when I decided to take part on Historical Sew Monthly, I had to tackle the job, aka chemise a la reine. Earlier in the Autumn I bought some thin mixed fabric I assumed suitable for the dress. I found it as exotic place as Ikea’s curtain section. However the curtain they had hanging on their sample rack was just slightly different than the fabric I found in the package at home. It was slightly shiny and hard 70% polyester and 30% cotton. This did indeed flattened my mood for sewing, and I could not make myself start the dress. In December I decided to finally wash the fabric in the hopes washing would take the hardness and shine away at least little bit.<\/p>\n

And it worked enough for me to accept the fabric for my chemise (acute lack of money might have had something to do with it)<\/strong><\/span>. As a pattern I used Norah Waugh’s chemise gown pattern, which I saw on my friends book. I used her measurements to calculate mine. I added just little bit fabric to the width and length, to make it long enough. I also added some length to the sleeve. I got\u00a0huge help from Maija’s<\/a> sewing report of her own chemise gown<\/a>. Unfortunately the page Maija used herself for help , is not available anymore. Maija used four curtains, but I was planning on settling for two. They should have enough material according to Waugh’s pattern measurements.<\/p>\n

Most popular colours for the scarflike belt seem to have been light pink or light blue, both in the 1770’s\u00a0and now. I don’t really like that much neither (way too much vibes for finnish babies christening gown)<\/strong><\/span>, so my next mission is to find eye-pleasing and relatively period suitable fabric for that. I wasn’t going to add any ruffles either, even though they were rather popular at the time. As a bustier person I think they just add to the body, even if wearing stays underneath. And that brings us smoothly to my next problem. What on earth am I going to wear under this dress? But more about that later.<\/p>\n

\"chemisegown1\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Puku on k\u00e4yt\u00e4nn\u00f6ss\u00e4 kutakuinkin j\u00e4ttim\u00e4inen suorakaide johon on leikattu kaaret<\/strong><\/span>
\nk\u00e4denteille ja muotoiltu kevyesti p\u00e4\u00e4ntiet\u00e4. K\u00e4dentiet ja p\u00e4\u00e4ntie sel\u00e4ss\u00e4 rypytet\u00e4\u00e4n
\nkiinte\u00e4sti<\/strong><\/span>.\u00a0Olkaimet, joihin hihat kiinnitet\u00e4\u00e4n ovat kutakuinkin\u00a0suorakaiteen
\n<\/strong><\/span>muotoiset nekin. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nDress is basically huge rectangular, which has small round cuts for armholes. Also<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nneckline has been very slightly curved. Gathering is permanent on the back neckline
\nand under arms\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em>. Shoulder straps are also almost rectangular and\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em>sleeves will be
\nattatched to them.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"chemisegown2\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Etukappaleen voisi my\u00f6s rypytt\u00e4\u00e4 pysyv\u00e4sti p\u00e4\u00e4ntielt\u00e4, mutta vaihdan t\u00e4m\u00e4n<\/strong><\/span>
\nviel\u00e4 todenn\u00e4k\u00f6isesti nauhakujaan jolla p\u00e4\u00e4ntiet\u00e4 saa s\u00e4\u00e4detty\u00e4 tarpeen mukaan.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>
\nVaughnin kirjassa puku on avoin koko matkan p\u00e4\u00e4ntielt\u00e4 helmaan asti, mutta min\u00e4 en\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>
\nhalunnut vilkutella alushametta vaan ompelin helman kiinni lantiolle asti. Vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6lle<\/strong><\/span>
\ntulee viel\u00e4 kiristysnauha. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nFront neckline could be gathered permanently, but I will probably replace this \u00a0with<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nadjustable drawstring. In Vaughn’s book the dress is open whole way\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em>from
\nneckline to the hem, but I didn’t want to show my petticoat, so I seamed\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em>the front
\nup to the hip. There will be also\u00a0drawstring on the waist.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Nyt kun tuli ryhdytty\u00e4 tuohon Historical Sew Monthlyyn, niin piti sitten ottaa heti h\u00e4rk\u00e4\u00e4 eli chemise a la reine\u00e4 sarvista. Olin jo aiemmin syksyll\u00e4 ostanut sopivaksi kuvittelemaani ohutta sekoitekangasta\u00a0niinkin eksoottisesta paikasta kuin Ikean verho-osastolta. Malliverhona roikkunut kappale oli kuitenkin aavistuksen\u00a0erilaista kangasta kuin kotona paketista paljastunut heikosti kiiltelev\u00e4 ja kova 70% polyesteri\u00e4 ja 30% puuvillaa sis\u00e4lt\u00e4v\u00e4… <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[27,228,256,7,150,13],"tags":[151,254,255,253,229,126],"class_list":["post-10992","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-evilompelee","category-historianelavoitys","category-historical-sew-monthly-2016","category-projektit","category-pukuhistoria","category-vaatehtimo","tag-costume-history","tag-historical-sew-monthly-2016","tag-hsm16-procrastination","tag-living-history","tag-re-enactment","tag-sewing-other-crafts","has-post-thumbnail","fallback-thumbnail"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-2Ri","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10992","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=10992"}],"version-history":[{"count":12,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10992\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":11078,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10992\/revisions\/11078"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=10992"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=10992"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=10992"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}