{"id":10828,"date":"2015-12-17T09:00:13","date_gmt":"2015-12-17T07:00:13","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=10828"},"modified":"2015-12-17T01:01:30","modified_gmt":"2015-12-16T23:01:30","slug":"1712-kuviokohdistus-matching-fabric-patterns","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=10828","title":{"rendered":"17\/12 Kuviokohdistus \/ Matching fabric patterns"},"content":{"rendered":"

Joskus sanotaan ett\u00e4 kuviokohdistus on se mik\u00e4 erottaa halvan laadusta. Se pit\u00e4\u00e4 paikkansa, sill\u00e4 kuviokohdistaminen on kallista. Se kuluttaa enemm\u00e4n ty\u00f6aikaa ja materiaalia kuin halpatuotanto. Silloin kun ompelee itselleen (tai tilauksesta asiakkaalle)<\/strong> <\/span>kuviokohdistaminen kuitenkin kannattaa. Sill\u00e4 tavoin voi piilottaa saumoja ja saada pient\u00e4 luksusta omiin ompelut\u00f6ihin. T\u00e4m\u00e4 ohje sopii suorien isojen kappaleiden yhdist\u00e4miseen, tai silloin kun joudut yhdist\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n pienempi\u00e4 paloja yhdeksi isoksi jotta se riitt\u00e4\u00e4 ompeluty\u00f6h\u00f6n.<\/p>\n

Voit my\u00f6s leikata kaavakappaleet valmiiksi ja kohdistaa kuviot leikkausvaiheessa. Ota t\u00e4ll\u00f6in huomioon ett\u00e4 saumanvara j\u00e4\u00e4 sauman ulkopuolelle eik\u00e4 leikattu reuna ole se kohta joka kohdistetaan (been there, done that. Helppo virhe joka sattuu kiireess\u00e4 my\u00f6s ammattilaiselle!)<\/strong><\/span>. Leikatessa voit tarvittaessa piirt\u00e4\u00e4 kuvioiden t\u00e4rkeit\u00e4 kohdistuskohtia suoraan kaavaan niin ett\u00e4 kuvio jatkuu toisella kaavakappaleella. N\u00e4in se on kankaallakin helpompi kohdistaa. Huomioi my\u00f6s ett\u00e4 kaarevien tai vinojen saumojen kuviokohdistus ei aina onnistu sill\u00e4 langansuunta on kuitenkin aina t\u00e4rke\u00e4mpi. Ja trikoon kohdistus, se vasta vaikeaa onkin koska trikoo on todenn\u00e4k\u00f6isesti venynyt, ainakin jos kyse on painokuvioisesta trikoosta. Varaudu siis siihen ett\u00e4 trikoota ei voi kuviokohdistaa kovin menestyksekk\u00e4\u00e4sti.<\/p>\n

\"inenglish\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Sometimes people say that matching fabric patterns\u00a0on seams is what separates cheap from quality. That is correct, because matching is expensive. It takes more time and uses more material than cheap production. When you are sewing for yourself (or on order to a customer)<\/strong><\/span> it is definitely worth it. You can hide seams with it and get little bit of luxury on your handmade sewing projects. This\u00a0method suits for joining large straight pieces, or if you have to connect smaller pieces to get one large one.<\/p>\n

You can also cut the garment pieces and match the fabric while cutting. If you use that method, notice that seam allowance edge is not the matching point, but the sewing line (been there, done that. Easy mistake which can happen even to professional when in a rush!)<\/strong><\/span>. If it helps you to match you can draw some key elements of the fabric print\/pattern on the actual pattern. Also notice that curved or angled seams are not always possible to match because grain line is always more important than matching. And matching seams on jersey is pretty difficult too. Jersey has probably stretched, atleast if it’s printed. So be prepared that jersey is not matchable.<\/p>\n

\"matching1\"
\n<\/a>1. Taita toisen yhdistett\u00e4v\u00e4n palan reuna ja silit\u00e4 se litte\u00e4ksi (multa j\u00e4i n\u00e4emm\u00e4
\nsilitys v\u00e4liin).\u00a0<\/span><\/strong>Taitettu osa on saumanvaraa. \/<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

1. Fold the edge of the other piece and iron it flat (I forgot the ironing apparently).<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nFolded edge is the seam allowance.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"matching2\"<\/a><\/p>\n

2. Etsi toisesta palasta kohta joka vastaa taitettua reunaa. Joskus se voi olla\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>aika
\nkaukanakin kankaan reunasta. T\u00e4m\u00e4 riippuu mink\u00e4 kokoinen on\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>kankaan raportti eli
\nmallikerta.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>Painokankaissa kohdistaminen saattaa joskus olla\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>hankalaa jos
\npainokuvio\u00a0on mennyt painettaessa kieroon. \/<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

2. Find the area on the second piece which is identical to the folded edge. Sometimes it
\ncan\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>be pretty far from the salvage edge. This depends on the size of the weave pattern.
\nOn\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>print fabrics matching might be sometimes difficult if print has gone crooked
\nin\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>the process.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"matching3\"<\/a><\/p>\n

3. Etsi yksityiskohdat jotka t\u00e4sm\u00e4\u00e4v\u00e4t. T\u00e4llainen monimutkainen kuvio pit\u00e4\u00e4
\nkohdistaa sek\u00e4 pysty- ett\u00e4 vaakasuunnassa. Raidallinen kangas pit\u00e4\u00e4 kohdistaa
\nvain joko pysty- tai vaakasuunnassa. \/<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

3. Find matching details. This kind of complicated pattern must be matched
\nboth horizontally and vertically. Stripes can be matched only either
\nhorizontally or vertically.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"matching4\"<\/a><\/p>\n

4. Aseta kuviot t\u00e4sm\u00e4lleen p\u00e4\u00e4llekk\u00e4in. \/<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

4. Match patterns exactly.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"matching5\"<\/a><\/p>\n

5. Neulaa kankaat yhteen t\u00e4sm\u00e4lleen taitteelta. \/<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

5. Pin fabrics together along the folded edge.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"matching6\"<\/a><\/p>\n

6. Siirr\u00e4 nuppineulat nurjalle puolelle. T\u00e4ss\u00e4 n\u00e4kyy selv\u00e4sti miten paljon ylim\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4ist\u00e4<\/strong><\/span>
\nkangasta kohdistaminen vie. \/<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

6. Move the pins from the right side to the reverse side. This also shows how much<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nextra this fabric requires for pattern matching.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"matching7\"<\/a><\/p>\n

7. Tarkista ennen ompelua viel\u00e4 ett\u00e4 kuviot t\u00e4sm\u00e4\u00e4v\u00e4t. \/<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

7. Before sewing, check that the patterns still match.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"matching8\"<\/a><\/p>\n

8. Sitten vain ompelu taitejuovaa pitkin ja loppusilitys. Ylim\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4isen saumanvaran<\/strong><\/span>
\nvoi\u00a0kaventaa pois. Nyt kangas on valmis k\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00f6n. \/<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

8. Then you just sew along the ironed foldline and finishing ironing. You can<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\ntrim the extra seam allowance. Now the fabric is ready for use.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Joskus sanotaan ett\u00e4 kuviokohdistus on se mik\u00e4 erottaa halvan laadusta. Se pit\u00e4\u00e4 paikkansa, sill\u00e4 kuviokohdistaminen on kallista. Se kuluttaa enemm\u00e4n ty\u00f6aikaa ja materiaalia kuin halpatuotanto. Silloin kun ompelee itselleen (tai tilauksesta asiakkaalle) kuviokohdistaminen kuitenkin kannattaa. Sill\u00e4 tavoin voi piilottaa saumoja ja saada pient\u00e4 luksusta omiin ompelut\u00f6ihin. T\u00e4m\u00e4 ohje sopii suorien isojen kappaleiden yhdist\u00e4miseen, tai silloin… <\/p>\n

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