{"id":10745,"date":"2020-12-07T08:02:00","date_gmt":"2020-12-07T06:02:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=10745"},"modified":"2020-12-06T20:30:13","modified_gmt":"2020-12-06T18:30:13","slug":"7-12-20-vintage-beauty-tip-huulipuna-lipstick","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=10745","title":{"rendered":"7\/12-20 Vintage beauty tip: huulipuna \/ lipstick"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Kosmetiikan historia ja vintagevinkki-osio on ollut t\u00e4ss\u00e4 v\u00e4h\u00e4n pidemm\u00e4ll\u00e4 tauolla, mutta nyt voitaisiin palata aiheeseen huulipunien kera. T\u00e4m\u00e4 on ehk\u00e4 enemm\u00e4nkin sellainen historiapl\u00e4j\u00e4ys. Kaikenlaista kosmetiikkaa on valmistettu ammoisista ajoista, mutta varsinainen kosmetiikkateollisuus kehittyi vasta 1800-luvun lopulla ja 1900-luvun alkuvuosikymmenin\u00e4. Tuota ennen kosmetiikkaa valmistettiin pieniss\u00e4 putiikeissa tai kotona. Sumerilaiset valmistivat luomille ja huulille levitett\u00e4vi\u00e4 v\u00e4riaineita murskaamalla v\u00e4rikk\u00e4it\u00e4 jalokivi\u00e4 jo 5000 vuotta sitten. Antiikin egyptil\u00e4iset murskasivat kuoriaisia saadakseen punaista v\u00e4riainetta huuliinsa. Siit\u00e4 on tultu melko pitk\u00e4lle. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

1500-luvun Englannissa huuliv\u00e4rist\u00e4 tuli suosittua kuningatar Elisabeth I:n ansiosta. Se oli h\u00e4nen tavaramerkkins\u00e4 valkoisen ihomaalin kera. Huulipuna valmistettiin mehil\u00e4isvahasta ja kasveista saatavista v\u00e4riaineista, mutta vain yl\u00e4luokan miehet ja naiset k\u00e4yttiv\u00e4t sit\u00e4. Homma k\u00e4\u00e4ntyi aivan p\u00e4\u00e4laelleen l\u00e4nsimaissa 1800-luvulla kuningatar Victorian aikana, kun meikkej\u00e4 k\u00e4yttiv\u00e4t l\u00e4hinn\u00e4 vain prostituoidut ja n\u00e4yttelij\u00e4t. Hyv\u00e4maineinen nainen ei sellaisiin koskenut. Korkeintaan nipisteli huulia ja poskia punakan v\u00e4rin nostamiseksi iholle ja ehk\u00e4 salaa saattoi hieroa huulia punajuurimehulla. Yhdysvalloissa sen sijaan alettiin k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 1800-luvulla siveltimell\u00e4 levitett\u00e4v\u00e4\u00e4 karmiinia huulten punaamiseen, mutta sit\u00e4k\u00e4\u00e4n ei katsottu hyv\u00e4ll\u00e4 ja vain n\u00e4yttelij\u00e4tt\u00e4ret voivat k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 sit\u00e4 julkisesti. Muistan my\u00f6s lukeneeni jostain ett\u00e4 jossakin historian vaiheessa punaista v\u00e4ri\u00e4 imeytettiin puuvillakankaan palaan. Kangaspalaa oli helppo kuljettaa mukana ja hieroa siit\u00e4 v\u00e4ri\u00e4 huuliin tai poskiin. Nyt en vain en\u00e4\u00e4 l\u00f6yt\u00e4nyt t\u00e4t\u00e4 l\u00e4hdett\u00e4 mist\u00e4\u00e4n joten en voi tarkistaa aikakautta. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

1900-luvun alussa vihdoin alkoi tapahtua toden teolla. Ty\u00f6ss\u00e4k\u00e4yv\u00e4t naiset voivat ja halusivat k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 omat rahansa muuhunkin kuin talousmenoihin.  Naiset halusivat ostaa omilla rahoillaan pieni\u00e4 ylellisyyksi\u00e4 kuten muotia ja kosmetiikkaa. Uusi keksint\u00f6 “el\u00e4v\u00e4t kuvat” toi esiintyj\u00e4t ja julkimot edullisesti kansan l\u00e4helle. Heit\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4si katsomaan vaikka ei olisikaan ollut varaa teatteriin tai ei p\u00e4\u00e4ssyt tanssiaisiin tai silm\u00e4\u00e4tekevien juhliin. Uusista mykk\u00e4elokuvat\u00e4hdist\u00e4 tuli v\u00e4litt\u00f6m\u00e4sti kuuluisuuksia ja heid\u00e4n tyyli\u00e4\u00e4n alettiin matkia. Olkoonkin ett\u00e4 valkokankaalla alkeellinen valaistus ja filmin laatu edellytti aivan toisenlaista maskeerausta kuin el\u00e4v\u00e4ss\u00e4 el\u00e4m\u00e4ss\u00e4. Huulipunien ja muun kosmetiikan k\u00e4ytt\u00f6 alkoi yleisty\u00e4 ja uusia tuotteita tuli markkinoille. 10-luvulla keksittiin sylinterinmuotoinen hylsy jossa oli pieni vipu jonka avulla huulipuikon saattoi ty\u00f6nt\u00e4\u00e4 esiin. Ne joilla ei ollut varaa ostaa huulipunaa saattoivat hieroa huuliin unikon tai pelargonian ter\u00e4lehti\u00e4. Suomessa tosin ei t\u00e4h\u00e4n aikaan viel\u00e4 tiedetty meikeist\u00e4 paljon mit\u00e4\u00e4n. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

1920-luvulla keksittiin automaattinen huulipuna, huulipuikko joka nousi yl\u00f6s kiert\u00e4m\u00e4ll\u00e4 hylsy\u00e4. Huulipunan lis\u00e4\u00e4minen julkisesti oli muotia, tosin oli se silti v\u00e4h\u00e4n skandal\u00f6\u00f6si\u00e4kin. Huulipuniin saatiin vihdoin muotiv\u00e4rej\u00e4. Aiemmin v\u00e4rivalikoima oli ollut hyvin rajallinen, l\u00e4hinn\u00e4 sit\u00e4 karmiininpunaista. 20-luvun alussa muotiv\u00e4rej\u00e4 olivat ruusu ja vadelma, puoliv\u00e4liss\u00e4 muotiin tuli oranssi ja vuosikymmenen lopulla hyvin tummat verenpunainen, luumu ja punaruskea. Huulipunien laadussa oli tosin toivomisen varaa, ne olivat hyvin ihoa kuivattavia. My\u00f6s ensimm\u00e4inen suudelmankest\u00e4v\u00e4 huulipuna tuli markkinoille, mutta siit\u00e4 ei tullut myyntimenestyst\u00e4 koska se todellakin oli niin kest\u00e4v\u00e4\u00e4 ett\u00e4 sen puhdistaminen huulista osoittautui hyvin hankalaksi. Huulten muoto oli t\u00e4rke\u00e4, niist\u00e4 pyrittiin saamaan pieni suppusuu joten amorinkaarista piirrettiin melko ter\u00e4v\u00e4t ja maalatuista huulista tehtiin omia huulia pienemm\u00e4t.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

30-luvulle tultaessa tummat v\u00e4ris\u00e4vyt olivat out ja muodikkaimmat huulipunat olivat vaaleaa ruusua, vadelmanpunaista, kiinanruusua ja oranssia. Huulien muodon tuli olla siro, mutta t\u00e4ytel\u00e4isempi kuin 20-luvulla. Max Factor, meikkien uranuurtaja, kehitti 30-luvulla ensimm\u00e4isen huulikiillon. Sota-aikana kosmetiikan, niin my\u00f6s huulipunan saatavuus oli heikompaa Euroopassa. Raaka-aineista oli pulaa ja metalliset huulipunahylsyt korvattiin kartongilla. Yhdysvalloissa sota ei vaikuttanut yht\u00e4 voimakkaasti. Kun 30-luvulla huulet maalattiin hiukan omia pienemm\u00e4ksi niin 40-luvulla ne piirrettiin vastaavasti v\u00e4h\u00e4n omia huulia runsaammiksi. Suosituimmat v\u00e4ris\u00e4vyt olivat bordeaux ja tiilenpunainen. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

50-luvulla suosituin huulipunan s\u00e4vy oli kirkkaanpunainen ja vuosikymmenen loppua kohden my\u00f6s vaaleanpunaiset s\u00e4vyt. Idolien kuten Marilyn Monroen ja Elizabeth Taylorin huulipunas\u00e4vyj\u00e4 matkittiin. 60-luvulla nuoret alkoivat k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 enemm\u00e4n meikkej\u00e4 ja kun vanhemmat kielsiv\u00e4t teineilt\u00e4 kirkkaat huulipunat, he k\u00e4yttiv\u00e4t sen sijaan vaaleita s\u00e4vyj\u00e4. Uudet helmi\u00e4ishohtoiset huulipunat olivat muotijuttu, suosituimmat s\u00e4vyt olivat helmi\u00e4isbeige, vaalea roosa ja kipsivalkoinen. Jotkut jopa k\u00e4yttiv\u00e4t peitepuikkoa huulipunan sijaan jotta huulet n\u00e4ytt\u00e4isiv\u00e4t mahdollisimman ihons\u00e4vyisille. Huulipuna oli naiseuden mittari ja naista joka ei k\u00e4ytt\u00e4nyt huulipunaa pidettiin v\u00e4h\u00e4n kummallisena. Huulten rajaaminen oli tarpeetonta kun huulten luonnollinen muoto oli valttia ja vaaleat v\u00e4rit suosituimpia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

70-luvulla huulimeikkej\u00e4 oli jo kolmea erilaista, helmi\u00e4ist\u00e4, huulikiiltoa ja mattapunaa. Huulikiilto oli n\u00e4ist\u00e4 ylivoimaisesti suosituin ja sit\u00e4 myytiin mm. lasisessa roll-on pullossa. Kiiltoa voitiin my\u00f6s lis\u00e4t\u00e4 muun huulipunan p\u00e4\u00e4lle. 70-luvulla tuli markkinoille my\u00f6s ensimm\u00e4iset maku-huulipunat. Huulten rajaamisesta ei edelleenk\u00e4\u00e4n v\u00e4litetty, suosikkis\u00e4vyj\u00e4t olivat rusehtavat s\u00e4vyt, mutta ensi kertaa n\u00e4htiin my\u00f6s t\u00e4ysin mustia huulipunia punk-skeness\u00e4. Maanl\u00e4heisten ja toisaalta my\u00f6s sekalaisten 70-luvun v\u00e4rien j\u00e4lkeen 80-luvulla alkoivat kiinnostaa v\u00e4riharmoniat ja rohkeat v\u00e4rit. Luonnollinen meikki oli out. Huulet piti taas rajata tarkasti. Huulipunat olivat usein siniseen taittavia punaisia tai pinkkej\u00e4. Nuoret saattoivat kokeilla jo r\u00e4v\u00e4k\u00e4mpi\u00e4kin v\u00e4rej\u00e4 kuten vihre\u00e4\u00e4 ja sinist\u00e4, mutta sellaisia huulipunas\u00e4vyj\u00e4 ei viel\u00e4 hirve\u00e4sti ollut markkinoilla vaan piti turvautua silm\u00e4nrajauskyniin tai muihin silm\u00e4meikkeihin. 90-luvun uutuus huulipunamarkkinoilla olivat erilaiset nestem\u00e4iset s\u00e4vytteet “tint” ja “stain”. 2000-luvulla ei en\u00e4\u00e4 ole oikeastaan mit\u00e4\u00e4n uutta keksitt\u00e4v\u00e4\u00e4. L\u00f6ytyy kaikkia mahdollisia v\u00e4ris\u00e4vyj\u00e4 ja koostumuksia huulilakoista mattapuniin ja kiilloista hileisiin. 2010-luvulla ollaan taas palattu esi\u00e4itiemme tapoihin, viimevuosien muotijuttu kun ovat olleet itsetehdyt huulivoiteet ja -punat. Ympyr\u00e4 sulkeutuu. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Karmiini<\/span><\/strong> – syv\u00e4npunainen v\u00e4riaine jota saadaan kokenillikirvoista
Tint & stain<\/strong><\/span> – nestem\u00e4isi\u00e4, l\u00e4hes vesim\u00e4isi\u00e4, meikkej\u00e4 joilla saa iholle luonnollisen n\u00e4k\u00f6isen v\u00e4rin, eiv\u00e4t j\u00e4t\u00e4 ihon pinnalle voidemaista tai tahmeaa kalvoa<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Jos pidit t\u00e4st\u00e4 jutusta, saatat tyk\u00e4t\u00e4 my\u00f6s muista Vintage Beauty Tip-jutuista<\/a> tai siit\u00e4 miten tein omaa huulivoidetta<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Cosmetic history and Vintage Beauty Tips have been on long break again, but let’s return to it with lipsticks. This is more of a history bundle than actual tips. All sorts of cosmetics have been made since the beginning of humanity, but the actual cosmetic industry didn’t start until the end of 1800’s and beginning of 1900’s. Before that cosmetics were made at home and in little boutiques. Sumerians crushed colourfull jewels already 5000 years ago, to create makeup for eyes and lips. Antique Egyptians crushed beetles to create red dye for their lips. We have come far from that. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lipstick became popular in 1500’s England due to Quee Elisabeth I. It was her trademark with white facepaint. Lipcolour was made from beeswax and colourings from plants. Only upper class men and women wore it. Things went topsy turvy in the 1800’s Europe during Queen Victoria’s era, when only actors and prostitutes wore makeup. Women with good background didn’t dare to touch such things. They perhaps just pinched their cheeks and lips to make them pink or perhaps secretly rubbed their skin with beetroot juice. Around the same time in United States women started using carmine, which was applied with brush. That wasn’t overly accepted either, only actors used it in public. I also remember reading from somewhere that at some point of history red colouring was soaked into small cotton cloth. It was easy to carry with you and you could rub it on your skin to get desired pinkish hue. I just could not find that online page to confirm the era. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Beginning of 1900’s was the big launch. Women were finally allowed to work outside homes and earn money. They also wanted to spend their earnings for other stuff than just food and living. Small luxuries like fashion and cosmetics became popular shoppings. New invention “moving pictures” brought performers and celebrities close to the common people. It was possible to go to the movies even though you could not afford theater or was not invited to balls. New silent film stars became celebrities overnight and people started copying their style. Even though movies of that time required completely different kind of makeup than real life. Lipsticks and other cosmetics became common and new items came to market. In 1910’s the cylinder-shaped lipstick casing was invented. It had a small lever to lift up the stick. Those who could not afford lipstick, rubbed perhaps poppy or pelargonium petals to their lips to get some tint. In Finland people knew little about makeup at this time. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Automatic lipstick was invented in 1920’s. It had a swivel operation which made the stick come visible. Adding lipstick in public became fashionable, even though it was still a bit vulgar to do. Finally there were some fashionable colours instead of just one shade of carmine red. Early 20’s rose and raspberry were popular shades but in the late 20’s very dark blood red, plum and reddish brown were best choices. But, the quality of the lipsticks left a lot to wish for, they made lips very dry. First ever kiss-proof lipstick was also introduced, but it didn’t become big success because it was so longlasting that washing it off before going to bed was very difficult. Shape of the lips was important. Most desired shape was very small and cupid bows were drawn very pointy. Lips were usually painted smaller than natural size. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

By the 30’s, dark colours were out and most fashionable colours were light rose, raspberry, hibiscus and orange. Shape of lips was still quite small, but fuller than in the 20’s. Max Factor, the pioneer of makeup, created first lipgloss in 1930’s. During the wartime lipsticks were difficult to come by, like most cosmetics. Cosmetic ingredients were used war effort instead and metal casings were replaced with cards and paper. Even though in United States, war didn’t affect as much as it did in Europe. Still in the 30’s lips were painted smaller than natural size, but in 40’s much fuller shape was desired and lips could be painted larger than natural size. Most popular colours in 40’s were bordeaux and brickred. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Most fashionable shade of lipstick in the 50’s was bright red, but towards the end of the decade, colours became more pale. Idols, like Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor were copied for their style. In the 60’s young women started using more makeup and when parents said no to bright red lipsticks, they turned to pale colours. New pearlescent colours were fashionable, most popular shades were pearl beige, pale rose and plaster white. Some even used the cover stick to imitate the skin tone for lips. Lipstick was the measure of femininity and those who did not use it, were thought to be a bit weird. Lipliners were not used, it wasn’t really needed due to natural shapes were popular and colours were so pale. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the 70’s there were already three different kind of lipsticks, gloss, pearlescent and matte. Lipgloss was the most popular of the era and it was sold for example in tiny glass roll-on bottles. People also used it ontop of other lipsticks. In the 70’s the first flavoured lipsticks came to market. People didn’t really care for lipliners, most popular colours were brownish tones, but first time completely black lipstick was seen in the punk scene. After the earthtoned and mix and match 70’s colour pallette, in the 80’s colour harmonies became popular. Bold colours were used and natural makeup was out. Lipliners came back and lipsticks were often bluish reds and pinks. Younger people were experimenting with bolder colours like blue and green. Even though those colours were not readily available in lipsticks, you just had to use eyeliners and other makeup for it. In the 90’s new invention was tints and stains, liquid lip products. And in the millenium there wasn’t really much new to invent. Everything was already in the market, all possible shades and textures from laquers to matte and gloss to glitter. In the 2010 we are sort of returning to the ways of our ancestors. Most fashionable thing is homemade lipbalms and lipsticks. Circle is closing. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Carmine<\/span><\/strong> – deep red dye that comes from cochineal insects
Tint & stain<\/span><\/strong> – liquid, almost water-like makeup that only gives you natural hint of colour, don’t leave greasy or sticky films on the skin<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

If you liked this article, you might also like my other Vintage Beauty Tips<\/a> or the story when I made my own tinted lip balm<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Yksi vaalimani aarre, alkuper\u00e4inen Shisheidon huulipunapuikko jollaisia geishat yh\u00e4 t\u00e4n\u00e4p\u00e4iv\u00e4n\u00e4 k\u00e4ytt\u00e4v\u00e4t meikkins\u00e4 tekemiseen. Valitettavasti puna on kuivahtanut s\u00e4ilytyksess\u00e4 eik\u00e4 siit\u00e4 t\u00e4llaisenaan hirve\u00e4sti irtoa v\u00e4ri\u00e4. \/
One of my treasures, original Shisheido lipstick which geisha’s still use today for their iconic makeup. Unfortunately this lipstick has dried in the storing and does not give out much colour. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Nestem\u00e4inen huuli- ja poskis\u00e4vyte, tint. K\u00e4yt\u00e4n t\u00e4t\u00e4 usein vintage-meikkeihini, s\u00e4vy on t\u00e4ydellinen. \/
Liquid lip and cheek tint. I use this often for my vintage makeup, it’s perfect shade.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Nestem\u00e4inen s\u00e4vyte vasemmalla ja geishojen huulipuna oikealla. Kuten kuvasta n\u00e4kyy, nestem\u00e4isen s\u00e4vyn v\u00e4ri uppoaa helposti ihon uurteisiin jos v\u00e4ri\u00e4 yritt\u00e4\u00e4 laittaa kerralla liikaa. Sit\u00e4 t\u00e4ytyykin osata kerrostaa v\u00e4h\u00e4n kerrallaan. \/
Liquid tint on left, geisha lipstick on the right. As you can see, tint pigments easily sink to the tiny wrinkles on the skin if you try putting too much in one go. It must be layered little by little. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Mummoni kaunis vanha Revlonin huulipuna. Olin ajatellut t\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 t\u00e4m\u00e4n uudelleen omalla s\u00e4vytetyll\u00e4 huulivoiteella, mutta valitettavasti puikon mekanismi on rikki. En tied\u00e4 onko sit\u00e4 mahdollista korjata. \/
My granny’s beautiful old Revlon lipstick. I though I would reuse this for my own tinted lipbalm, however the mechanism is broken. I don’t know if it’s possible to fix it. <\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Toinen mummini vanha huulipuna joka l\u00f6ytyi h\u00e4nen autostaan. Vanha Lumenen puikko. \/
Another one of my granny’s old lipsticks which was found in her old car. This is old design by Lumene brand.<\/em><\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Kosmetiikan historia ja vintagevinkki-osio on ollut t\u00e4ss\u00e4 v\u00e4h\u00e4n pidemm\u00e4ll\u00e4 tauolla, mutta nyt voitaisiin palata aiheeseen huulipunien kera. T\u00e4m\u00e4 on ehk\u00e4 enemm\u00e4nkin sellainen historiapl\u00e4j\u00e4ys. Kaikenlaista kosmetiikkaa on valmistettu ammoisista ajoista, mutta varsinainen kosmetiikkateollisuus kehittyi vasta 1800-luvun lopulla ja 1900-luvun alkuvuosikymmenin\u00e4. Tuota ennen kosmetiikkaa valmistettiin pieniss\u00e4 putiikeissa tai kotona. Sumerilaiset valmistivat luomille ja huulille levitett\u00e4vi\u00e4 v\u00e4riaineita murskaamalla… <\/p>\n

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