{"id":10741,"date":"2015-12-21T09:00:58","date_gmt":"2015-12-21T07:00:58","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=10741"},"modified":"2016-05-04T23:05:28","modified_gmt":"2016-05-04T20:05:28","slug":"2112-kustaava-baroth-1830-luvulla-gustava-baroth-in-1830s","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=10741","title":{"rendered":"21\/12 Kustaava B\u00e4roth 1830-luvulla \/ Gustava B\u00e4roth in 1830’s"},"content":{"rendered":"

Muistatteko viel\u00e4 kun pari vuotta sitten ostin oopperan kirpputorilta pari pukua? Toinenhan niist\u00e4 jo muokkautui empire-tyyliseksi taftipuvuksi. Toinen puku on odotellut inspiraatiota. Kuten se taftipuku, t\u00e4m\u00e4k\u00e4\u00e4n puku ei ihan t\u00e4ydelleen muistuttanut mit\u00e4\u00e4n vuosikymment\u00e4, mutta oli kuitenkin l\u00e4hemp\u00e4n\u00e4 totuutta. Puvun peruslinjat noudattelevat 1830-luvun muotoja, mutta ainakin p\u00e4\u00e4ntie on hiukan v\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4n mallinen. Puvun on tarkoitus olla tanssiaispuku. Jevgeni Onegin-oopperassa t\u00e4m\u00e4 puku ja kymmenet sen sisaret olivat tanssiaiskohtauksessa p\u00e4\u00e4ll\u00e4 oopperan kuorolla. Ollakseen autenttisempi 1830-luvun tanssiaispuku, p\u00e4\u00e4ntien tulisi j\u00e4tt\u00e4\u00e4 olkap\u00e4\u00e4t paljaaksi. Helman toki pit\u00e4isi olla hiukan peitt\u00e4v\u00e4mpi kuin t\u00e4m\u00e4 (ja ilman tylli\u00e4)<\/strong><\/span>, mutta pit\u00e4\u00e4 muistaa ett\u00e4 kyseess\u00e4 on oopperapuku jonka tarvitsee n\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 hyv\u00e4lt\u00e4 kaukaa. Yksityiskohdilla ja rakenteilla ei siis ole niin suurta merkityst\u00e4.<\/p>\n

P\u00e4\u00e4tin kuitenkin, ett\u00e4 ennenkuin nyt varsinaisesti alan fiksaamaan pukua niin asustan sen 1830-luvun tyyliin ja katson miten hyvin saan sen m\u00e4ts\u00e4\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4n. Kampauksella on suuri merkitys. 1830-luvulla juhlakampaukset olivat varsin mielikuvituksellisia ja suuria. Empire-kautena kampauksissa oli jo samaa tyyli\u00e4, mutta 30-luvulla mittakaava r\u00e4j\u00e4hti v\u00e4h\u00e4n k\u00e4siin. Sivuille koottiin massiiviset kihararykelm\u00e4t ja p\u00e4\u00e4laelle koottiin erilaisia korkeita silotettuja kiehkuroita, kokonaisia rusettimaisia\u00a0hiusosioita ja lettej\u00e4. Koko komeus kuorrutettiin h\u00f6yheninen, kukin, rusetein ja koruin. Aikamoista. Pinterest-kansiossani<\/a> on referenssikuvia. Itse en ole t\u00e4llaista kampausta aiemmin\u00a0testannut joten tyydyin hiukan simppelimp\u00e4\u00e4n versioon. Lukemani mukaan 1830-luvulla naiset k\u00e4yttiv\u00e4t reippaasti hiuslis\u00e4kkeit\u00e4 koska se oli nopeampaa ja k\u00e4tev\u00e4mp\u00e4\u00e4.<\/p>\n

T\u00e4ss\u00e4p\u00e4 siis saapuvan joulun kunniaksi rouva Kustaava B\u00e4roth koko komeudessaan 1830-luvulla. Kuvauspaikkana on Milavida<\/a>, jossa toimii nyky\u00e4\u00e4n museo. Tanssiaispuku on silkkiorganzaa taftisin yksityiskohdin. Puku on paikoin varsin kulunut sill\u00e4 silkkiorganza ei kest\u00e4 kovasti kulutusta. Kuvissa t\u00e4m\u00e4 ei onneksi juurikaan n\u00e4y. En ole siis tehnyt puvulle viel\u00e4 yht\u00e4\u00e4n mit\u00e4\u00e4n, mutta ainakin nuo kuluneet kohdat pit\u00e4\u00e4 peitt\u00e4\u00e4 jollakin. Ehk\u00e4 lis\u00e4\u00e4n siihen jotain pitsi\u00e4 tai muita koristeita ja tuo p\u00e4\u00e4ntie pit\u00e4isi ainakin fiksata vastaamaan paremmin aikakauden linjaa.<\/p>\n

\"inenglish\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Do you still remember when couple years ago I bought couple dresses from the Opera flea market? I already altered the other dress for Regency\u00a0style taffeta dress. This other dress has been waiting for inspiration. Like the taffeta dress, this dress wasn’t exactly a proper period dress, even though it is closer to the actual decade. Basic lines are following the style of 1830’s, but atleast the neckline is wrong. \u00a0It is supposed to be a ball gown. In the Eugene Onegin-opera this gown, with it’s identical sisters, were worn by Opera choir memebers in a ball scene. To be more authentic 1830’s ball gown it should reveal more shoulders. Hem also should be covering more (and no tulle), but we have to remember that this is an opera gown, it only needs to look good from a distance. Details and construction don’t really matter that much.<\/p>\n

However I decided that before I do any fixing to it, let’s have some fun and try and see how well I’m able to create 1830’s ensemble with it. Hairdo does huge impact. In 1830’s the ball hairdo’s were very imaginative and big. Regency style already had similar features, but in the 30’s the measurements just went into extremes. Huge groups of curls on the sides and massive smooth loops of hair with braids on the top of the head. All this was decorated with feathers, flowers, bows and jewelry. That’s quite something. Check the pictures\u00a0on my Pinterest-board<\/a>. I haven’t done this kind or hairdo before, so I opted for more simple style this time. I have read that in the 1830’s women used loads of hair extensions. It was just much more faster and handier.<\/p>\n

So here is Mme Gustava B\u00e4roth in her 1830’s ensemble. Location is palace Milavida<\/a>, \u00a0precious home for \u00a0family von\u00a0Nottbeck, now museum and restaurant. \u00a0Ball gown is made of silk organza with taffeta details. Dress is quite worn out in places. Silk organza is not very durable. In photos this doesn’t really show that much though. I haven’t done anything to the dress yet, but atleast the wornout spots needs to be covered with something. Perhaps I add lace or other decorations. Neckline also has to altered to match the lines of the era.<\/p>\n

\"1830s1\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"1830s2\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"1830s3\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Ei t\u00e4m\u00e4 nyt ihan autenttinen asukokonaisuus ole, mutta ihan hyv\u00e4 n\u00e4ihin kuviin.
\n<\/strong>K\u00e4sineet, hiuskukat\u00a0&\u00a0korut – kirppiksilt\u00e4<\/strong><\/span>
\nViuhka – antiikkimarkkinat, Englanti<\/strong><\/span>
\nKeng\u00e4t – kaverilta<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

It’s not authentic ensemble, but pretty good for these photos.
\nGloves, hair flowers & jewelry – thrifted
\nFan – antique market, England
\nShoes – from a friend<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"1830s5\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"1830s4\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Viimeist\u00e4\u00e4n selk\u00e4osa paljastaa puvun moderniuden: vetoketju, vy\u00f6n tarranauha ja<\/strong><\/span>
\nkorsetin puutteesta johtuva puvun kupruilu selk\u00e4l\u00e4skeiss\u00e4. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nIf nothing else, atleast the backside reveals the modern details: zipper, velcro on<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nthe belt and bulging back fat due to lack of corset.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"1830s6\"<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Muistatteko viel\u00e4 kun pari vuotta sitten ostin oopperan kirpputorilta pari pukua? Toinenhan niist\u00e4 jo muokkautui empire-tyyliseksi taftipuvuksi. Toinen puku on odotellut inspiraatiota. Kuten se taftipuku, t\u00e4m\u00e4k\u00e4\u00e4n puku ei ihan t\u00e4ydelleen muistuttanut mit\u00e4\u00e4n vuosikymment\u00e4, mutta oli kuitenkin l\u00e4hemp\u00e4n\u00e4 totuutta. Puvun peruslinjat noudattelevat 1830-luvun muotoja, mutta ainakin p\u00e4\u00e4ntie on hiukan v\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4n mallinen. Puvun on tarkoitus olla tanssiaispuku…. <\/p>\n

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