{"id":10465,"date":"2015-10-22T01:40:23","date_gmt":"2015-10-21T22:40:23","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=10465"},"modified":"2015-10-22T01:40:23","modified_gmt":"2015-10-21T22:40:23","slug":"paljettimoka-sequin-related-incident","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=10465","title":{"rendered":"Paljettimoka \/ Sequin related incident"},"content":{"rendered":"

Ja tapahtui niin\u00e4 p\u00e4ivin\u00e4,\u00a0ett\u00e4 kodin hengett\u00e4relt\u00e4 k\u00e4vi k\u00e4sky, ett\u00e4 kaikki pyykit oli pest\u00e4v\u00e4 ja pyykkikori tyhjennett\u00e4v\u00e4. Ja kaikki pyykit meniv\u00e4t pesuun pantavaksi, kukin omaan pyykkitupaansa. Niin Rhia Evildressmakerkin l\u00e4hti vintagevaattehinensa ja pyykkikoreinensa joka oli kukkuroillaan. Ja tapahtui h\u00e4nen pyykk\u00e4\u00e4m\u00e4ss\u00e4 ollessaan, ett\u00e4 tuli aika pest\u00e4 vintagepusero jossa oli paljetteja. Ja h\u00e4n pyykk\u00e4si puseron ja asetti sen \u00e4mp\u00e4riin likoomaan.<\/p>\n

Ja sitten vasta se riemu repesikin, kun tajusin ett\u00e4 olin\u00a0sitten pist\u00e4nyt gelatiinista tehtyj\u00e4 paljetteja vesipesuun. Jei! Gelatiinipaljetteihin t\u00f6rm\u00e4\u00e4 silloin t\u00e4ll\u00f6in vintagevaatteissa. Niit\u00e4 k\u00e4ytettiin 20-luvulta 50-luvun alkuun,\u00a0vaikka oli\u00a0\u00e4\u00e4rimm\u00e4isen ep\u00e4k\u00e4yt\u00e4nn\u00f6llinen materiaali vaatteissa. Ne\u00a0olivat kuitenkin edullisia valmistaa eik\u00e4 muovisia oikeastaan viel\u00e4 osattu tehd\u00e4. Gelatiinipaljetti, kuten nimest\u00e4kin voi jo arvella, liukenee veteen. Se ei kest\u00e4 silitt\u00e4mist\u00e4k\u00e4\u00e4n kovin hyvin. Onneksi huomasin virheeni ajoissa, pusero ei ehtinyt likoamaan kuin enint\u00e4\u00e4n 20 minuuttia. Huuhtelin puseron nopeasti ja ripustin kuivumaan. Kunnolla kuivuttuaan paljetit olivat viel\u00e4 ihan hyv\u00e4kuntoisia. Kiilto on ehk\u00e4 hivenen himmennyt, mutta muuten ovat ihan ok. Onneksi.<\/p>\n

Mit\u00e4 gelatiinipaljetille tapahtuu vesipesussa?<\/strong><\/span>
\nPaljetti turpoaa, eli siit\u00e4 tulee sek\u00e4 paksumpi ett\u00e4 halkaisijaltaan suurempi. Se my\u00f6s pehmenee ja haurastuu huomattavasti ja muuttuu tahmeaksi. Jos sen j\u00e4tt\u00e4\u00e4 veteen riitt\u00e4v\u00e4n pitk\u00e4ksi aikaa se v\u00e4hitellen liukenee kuten liivate, sill\u00e4 sit\u00e4h\u00e4n se oikeastaan on. Teoriassa gelatiinipaljetteja voisi siis k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 liivatteen sijasta, mutta niiden v\u00e4riaineissa on yleens\u00e4 lyijy\u00e4 joten se ei ole miss\u00e4\u00e4n tapauksessa suositeltavaa. Mit\u00e4 l\u00e4mpim\u00e4mp\u00e4\u00e4 vesi on, sit\u00e4 nopeammin t\u00e4m\u00e4 tapahtuu. Omassa tapauksessani vesi oli aivan kylm\u00e4\u00e4 joten 20 minuutin liotus ei viel\u00e4 aiheuttanut vakavampia vaurioita. En kuitenkaan suosittele tarkoituksella testaamaan sill\u00e4 paljettien kiilto luultavasti himmenee jonkin verran. Pesukoneessa paljeteista olisi takuuvarmasti tullut entisi\u00e4. Oma suositukseni on ett\u00e4\u00a0jos ostat vintagevaatteen jossa on paljetteja, irrota varovasti yksi paljetti ja testaa kest\u00e4\u00e4k\u00f6 se vett\u00e4. Mik\u00e4li se muuttuu vedess\u00e4 nopeasti hiukan tahmaiseksi ja pehmenee l\u00f6ps\u00f6ksi, se on gelatiinia eik\u00e4 vaate kest\u00e4 vesipesua.<\/p>\n

\n

Paljettien lyhyt historia<\/strong><\/span><\/h2>\n

Antiikin Egypti, L\u00e4hi-it\u00e4, Intia, Peru jne.<\/strong><\/span>
\nKolikoita ja muita metallisia kiekkoja on ommeltu vaatteisiin monissa eri tarkoituksissa ymp\u00e4ri maailmaa. Kuningas Tutankhamonin (1341 eK – 1323 eK)<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0vaatteisiin oli ommeltu paljetin tapaisia metallisia kiekkoja. Kolikot ja paljetit\u00a0ovat olleet varkauden est\u00e4ji\u00e4, statussymboleja, hengellist\u00e4 opastusta tai pahojen henkien karkottajia, eiv\u00e4t pelk\u00e4st\u00e4\u00e4n koristeita. Niit\u00e4 on k\u00e4ytetty my\u00f6s muualla, kuten sein\u00e4vaatteissa. Paljetteja on voitu valmistaa my\u00f6s helmi\u00e4isest\u00e4, kovakuoriaisten kuorista tai muusta vastaavasta kovasta ja kiilt\u00e4v\u00e4st\u00e4 materiaalista.<\/p>\n

1480-luku<\/strong><\/span>
\nLeonardo da Vinci luonnosteli\u00a0laitteen jonka avulla voitiin leikata ohuesta metallilevyst\u00e4 paljetteja. Laitetta ei kuitenkaan koskaan rakennettu.<\/p>\n

1600–1800-luku<\/strong><\/span>
\nTietyntyyppisist\u00e4 n\u00e4ytt\u00e4vist\u00e4 puvuista tuli hoviv\u00e4en ja rikkaan ylh\u00e4is\u00f6n muodikas statussymboli. Puvut koristeltiin pienin metallipaljetein p\u00e4\u00e4st\u00e4 varpaisiin.<\/p>\n

1920-luku<\/strong><\/span>
\nKun Tutankhamonin hauta l\u00f6ydettiin 1922, paljeteista tuli todellinen megahitti. Iltapuvut kuorrutettiin paljetein niin ett\u00e4 kangasta h\u00e4din tuskin n\u00e4kyi alta. 20-luvun lopulla keksittiin menetelm\u00e4 jolla paljetteja voitiin valmistaa gelatiinista.<\/p>\n

1930-luku<\/strong><\/span>
\nHerbert Lieberman keksi menetelm\u00e4n valmistaa paljetteja asetaatista. Ne olivat kuitenkin eritt\u00e4in hauraita ja rikkoutuivat kuin lasi.<\/p>\n

1950-luku<\/strong><\/span>
\nDuPont kehitti mylar-kalvon 1952. T\u00e4m\u00e4 mullisti paljettiteollisuuden sill\u00e4 t\u00e4st\u00e4 eteenp\u00e4in niit\u00e4 voitiin valmistaa pesunkest\u00e4vin\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4llyst\u00e4m\u00e4ll\u00e4 asetaattipaljetti mylar-kalvolla. Mylar-asetaattipaljetit ovat eritt\u00e4in korkeakiiltoisia. Gelatiinin k\u00e4ytt\u00f6 paljettien valmistuksessa j\u00e4i t\u00e4m\u00e4n my\u00f6t\u00e4 historiaan. My\u00f6hemmin mylar-asetaatti yhdistelm\u00e4 korvattiin vinyylill\u00e4 joka on viel\u00e4 edullisempaa ja kest\u00e4v\u00e4mp\u00e4\u00e4, tosin sekin ajan my\u00f6t\u00e4 menett\u00e4\u00e4 muotonsa ja kupristuu.<\/p>\n

Nykyaika<\/strong><\/span>
\nPaljetteja voidaan valmistaa edelleen metallista ja helmi\u00e4isest\u00e4, mik\u00e4 tekee niist\u00e4 luonnollisesti kalliita. Paljetteja voidaan my\u00f6s valmistaa erilaisista edullisista tai kalliimmista muovilaaduista, vaikkapa kierr\u00e4tetyist\u00e4 muovipulloista. Laadukkaita korkeakiiltoisia paljetteja valmistetaan edelleen laminoimalla ohutta metallilevy\u00e4 muovikalvojen v\u00e4liin.<\/p>\n

L\u00e4hde:\u00a0Smithsonian<\/a><\/span><\/h5>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\"inenglish\"<\/a><\/p>\n

And it happened so that the fairy godmother of household economics ordered that all laundry needed washing. So the Evil Dressmaker was also put to the task of launder and it was time to wash also one particular vintage blouse with sequins. And so she poured water into the bucket and put the blouse to soak. You know where this is going, right?<\/p>\n

Pretty soon I realized I made a huge mistake. I actually soaked a blouse with gelatin sequins. Yay! You bump into gelatin sequins in vintage garments every now and then. They were used from late 20’s to the early 50’s, even though they are extremely impractical material on clothes. They were cheap\u00a0to make and people\u00a0didn’t really know how to make proper plastic sequins yet. Gelatin sequin solves into the water, as you might have guessed based on the name. It doesn’t really handle ironing either. Thankfully I noticed my mistake in time, blouse soaked only about 20 minutes. I rinsed it quickly and hanged to dry. When dry the sequins seemed quite ok still. Perhaps not as shiny than before, but otherwise fine. Thankfully.<\/p>\n

What happens to gelatin sequin in a wash?<\/strong><\/span>
\nSequin grows in size, so it gets thicker and larger. It also gets quite soft and fragile and becomes sticky. If you leave it in the water long enough, it finally solves completely, like gelling agent\u00a0tends to do. because that’s what it basically is. In theory you could use gelatin sequins to replace the gelling agent in food, but the colourings usually have lead in them so this is not by any\u00a0means recommendable at all. The warmer the water is, the faster it solves. In my case water was cold, so 20 minutes soak didn’t really make any big damage. In washing machine they pretty surely would have vanished. I don’t still recommend trying this out, because\u00a0the shine of sequins probably goes a bit dimmer. So my recommendation is that if you buy vintage garment with sequins, take one sequin off very carefully and test out how\u00a0it handles water. If it gets sticky and goes soft, it is made of gelatin and the garment can’t be washed in water.<\/p>\n

\n

Brief history of sequins<\/strong><\/span><\/h2>\n

Angent Egypti, Middle East, India, Peru etc.<\/strong><\/span>
\nCoins and other metal discs have been sewn to garments for many different reasons all around the world. King Tutankhamon’s\u00a0(1341 eK – 1323 eK)<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0clothes had sequin-like metal discs sewn on. Coins and metal sequins\u00a0have prevented thefts, provided spiritual guidance, been status symbols and repelled bad spirits. They have also been used in tapestry. Sequins have also been made of mother of pearl or beetle wings or similar hard and shiny material.<\/p>\n

1480’s<\/strong><\/span>
\nLeonardo da Vinci sketched a machine for cutting sequins from thin metal plate. Machine was never built though.<\/p>\n

1600’s –\u00a01800’s<\/strong><\/span>
\nCertain type of fashionable \u00a0and fancy outfits became popular amongs the court and nobility of certain wealth. These dresses were decorated from head to toe with tiny metal sequins.<\/p>\n

1920’s<\/strong><\/span>
\nWhen the tomb of \u00a0Tutankhamon was found in 1922, sequins became a rave. Evening gowns were practically covered with sequins so that fabric was barely visible. In the late 20’s they invented a method for making sequins from gelatin.<\/p>\n

1930’s<\/strong><\/span>
\nHerbert Lieberman figured out how to make sequins from acetate. They were very shiny but brittle like glass.<\/p>\n

1950’s<\/strong><\/span>
\nDuPont developed\u00a0mylar\u00a0in\u00a01952. This \u00a0revolutionized sequin industry, because from now on, it was possible to make washable sequins, by covering acetate sequins with mylar film. Mylar-acetate sequins are very shiny. Using gelatin for sequins was finally taken over by this combo of mylar and acetate. Later that was replaced with vinyl though. Vinyl is even cheaper and durable than mylar-acetate. Allthough even that looses it’s shape and curls up in time.<\/p>\n

Modern time<\/strong><\/span>
\nSequins can still be made of metal and mother-of-pearl, which makes them quite expensive. Also various types of plastic, cheap and expensive, \u00a0can be used to make them, for example recycled plastic bottles. Quality sequins with high shine are still made by laminating thin metal foil between plastic films.<\/p>\n

Source:\u00a0Smithsonian<\/a><\/span><\/h5>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\"sequin1\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Vasemmalla kuiva gelatiinipaljetti, oikealla noin vartin vedess\u00e4 lionnut paljetti.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>
\nPaljetti on turvonnut huomattavasti ja tahmea pinnaltaan. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nDry gelatin sequin on the left, right one has been soaking about 15 minutes.<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nIt’s swollen and sticky on the surface.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"sequin2\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Gelatiinipaljetit pesun j\u00e4lkeen kuivuneina. Osa on pinnaltaan hieman mattaisempia<\/strong><\/span>
\nkuin aiemmin, muutoin vaikuttavat kohtalaisen hyv\u00e4kuntoisille. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nGelatin sequins after wash when dried. Some of them seem a bit less shiny than\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\nbefore, but besides that they seem pretty ok.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"sequin3\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Moderneja mattapintaisia paljetteja. \/ Modern matte finish sequins.<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"sequin4\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Laadukkaan paljetin tunnistaa korkeasta kiillosta ja siit\u00e4 ett\u00e4 se on t\u00e4ydellisen
\npy\u00f6re\u00e4.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>Halvoissa paljeteissa on usein leikkuusta j\u00e4\u00e4nyt pieni ter\u00e4v\u00e4 nipukka
\njoka raapii\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>ihoa ik\u00e4v\u00e4sti ja tarttuu kiinni kankaaseen. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nHigh quality sequins can be recognized from high shine and that they are
\nperfectly\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em>round. Cheap sequins often has tiny sharp spike, remnant from poor
\ncutting,\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em>which scratches skin and gets caught on fabric.\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Ja tapahtui niin\u00e4 p\u00e4ivin\u00e4,\u00a0ett\u00e4 kodin hengett\u00e4relt\u00e4 k\u00e4vi k\u00e4sky, ett\u00e4 kaikki pyykit oli pest\u00e4v\u00e4 ja pyykkikori tyhjennett\u00e4v\u00e4. Ja kaikki pyykit meniv\u00e4t pesuun pantavaksi, kukin omaan pyykkitupaansa. Niin Rhia Evildressmakerkin l\u00e4hti vintagevaattehinensa ja pyykkikoreinensa joka oli kukkuroillaan. Ja tapahtui h\u00e4nen pyykk\u00e4\u00e4m\u00e4ss\u00e4 ollessaan, ett\u00e4 tuli aika pest\u00e4 vintagepusero jossa oli paljetteja. Ja h\u00e4n pyykk\u00e4si puseron ja asetti sen… <\/p>\n

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