{"id":10274,"date":"2015-09-15T10:00:30","date_gmt":"2015-09-15T07:00:30","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=10274"},"modified":"2015-09-15T11:24:22","modified_gmt":"2015-09-15T08:24:22","slug":"chemise-dress-a-la-marie-antoinette","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=10274","title":{"rendered":"Chemise dress a la Marie Antoinette"},"content":{"rendered":"

Olen p\u00e4\u00e4tt\u00e4nyt olla helppo. Nimitt\u00e4in seuraavan historiallisen asun suhteen. 1780-luvun chemise-puku ei ole niit\u00e4 suosikkejani historiallisista asuista, mutta se on sen verran yksinkertainen toteuttaa ett\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4dyin siihen seuraavaa asua valitessani. Chemise gown muodostuu noin kolmimetrisest\u00e4 suorakaiteen muotoisesta palasta joka taitetaan kaksinkerroin, muotoillaan k\u00e4denteiden kohdalta, p\u00e4\u00e4rm\u00e4t\u00e4\u00e4n, rypytet\u00e4\u00e4n ja ommellaan muutama ny\u00f6rikuja, olkaimet ja hihat. Puku on s\u00e4\u00e4dett\u00e4v\u00e4 sen mukaan miten kire\u00e4lle tahtoo kirist\u00e4\u00e4 korsetin ny\u00f6rit (tai laittaako ollenkaan korsettia alle)<\/strong><\/span>. P\u00e4\u00e4ntielle voisi laittaa viel\u00e4 r\u00f6yhel\u00f6t mutta itse pid\u00e4n puvusta enemm\u00e4n ilman r\u00f6yhel\u00f6it\u00e4. Vy\u00f6t\u00e4r\u00f6lle voi kietaista v\u00e4rikk\u00e4\u00e4n nauhan.<\/p>\n

Chemise-puvun eli pilkkanimelt\u00e4\u00e4n\u00a0Chemise a la Reinen esitteli ensi kertaa Marie Antoinette. Se oli Ranskan ylimyst\u00f6n\u00a0raskaisiin hovipukuihin verrattuna kevyt ja miellytt\u00e4v\u00e4 k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 ja mik\u00e4li ymm\u00e4rsin oikein Marie Antoinette k\u00e4ytti sit\u00e4 mielell\u00e4\u00e4n ilman kureliivi\u00e4. Aikanaan puku\u00a0her\u00e4tti laajasti pahennusta, mutta naiset luonnollisesti ottivat t\u00e4m\u00e4n vapaamuotoisemman ja edullisemman puvun omakseen v\u00e4litt\u00f6m\u00e4sti my\u00f6s Ranskan ulkopuolella. Ranskassa puku her\u00e4tti my\u00f6s toisenlaista n\u00e4r\u00e4\u00e4 sill\u00e4 se valmistettiin yleens\u00e4 Englannista maahantuodusta musliinista ja ranskalainen silkkikangasteollisuus kamppaili oletettavasti sen johdosta tappioiden kourissa. Puvusta oli my\u00f6s eri v\u00e4rej\u00e4 ja tiukemmin istuvia muunnoksia ja sen\u00a0pohjalta kehittyi my\u00f6s 1800-luvun alun empire-linjainen muoti.<\/p>\n

Itse pukua enemm\u00e4n t\u00f6it\u00e4 teett\u00e4isi sitten alle laitettavat vermeet. Alle tulisi aluspaita, erillinen alushame ja kureliivi sek\u00e4 jonkinlainen takamustyyny elik\u00e4s rump. Noista tuo kureliivi aiheuttaa eniten p\u00e4\u00e4nvaivaa, sill\u00e4 en edelleenk\u00e4\u00e4n ole saanut jo pari vuotta sitten aloitettua kureliivi\u00e4ni etenem\u00e4\u00e4n p\u00e4tk\u00e4\u00e4k\u00e4\u00e4n. Ehk\u00e4 nyt olisi jo aika v\u00e4hitellen paneutua asiaan. Pit\u00e4isi vain l\u00f6yt\u00e4\u00e4 joku paikka miss\u00e4 myyd\u00e4\u00e4n puolipy\u00f6re\u00e4\u00e4 ruokoa. Ajattelin tuupata sit\u00e4 luiksi. Jos joku tiet\u00e4\u00e4 hyv\u00e4n ruokokaupan (cane\/reed)<\/strong><\/span> niin vinkki\u00e4 tulemaan.<\/p>\n

\"inenglish\"<\/a><\/p>\n

I have decidec to be easy. I mean easy on the next historical costume. 1780’s Chemise gown is not my absolute favourite on historical costuming, but it’s quite easy to make, so I decided on that for the next outfit. It’s actually pretty much three meters of fabric, folded in half, curved under arm, hemmed, gathered, added couple casings for ribbon and sleeves and that’s it. Dress is adjustable, depending on how tight corset you’re wearing (or if you’re wearing any corset at all)<\/strong><\/span>. Neckline could have ruffles too, but I kinda like it better without. Colourfull ribbon can be added to the waist.<\/p>\n

Chemise a la Reine was introduced to the public by Marie Antoinette. It was very light and comfortable to wear, compared to the heavy court gowns in France. If I understood correctly, Marie Antoinette liked to wear it without stays. It caused loads of commotion during it’s time, but women of course took this more informal dress to their own, also outside France. In France it caused also different kind of problems. French silk fabric industry made lots of losses assumably because these gowns were made from imported English muslin. There were also different colours and a bit more snugly fitted version of chemise a la reine and it was the base for early 1800’s empire-lined Regency dresses.<\/p>\n

More work would go on the stuff under the dress, stays and underpinnings. It would require chemise underneath and separate petticoat, proper stays and some sort of rump. Stays is the most tricky for me to do, since I still haven’t done anything to my first stay I started couple years ago. Perhaps now would be the time. I should just find a place to buy some reed or cane. I was planning on putting that as boning. If anyone knows any good shops to buy cane or reed (and affordable to ship over to Finland)<\/strong><\/span>, tips are most welcome.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Louise Augusta, by Jens Juel 1780
\nPic.\u00a0<\/a><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"marieantoinette2\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Marie Antoinette, by\u00a0Louise \u00c9lisabeth Vig\u00e9e Le Brun, 1783
\nPic.<\/a><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"85956329bbf854bd4697f0ce98809d3f\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Pic ?<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Olen p\u00e4\u00e4tt\u00e4nyt olla helppo. Nimitt\u00e4in seuraavan historiallisen asun suhteen. 1780-luvun chemise-puku ei ole niit\u00e4 suosikkejani historiallisista asuista, mutta se on sen verran yksinkertainen toteuttaa ett\u00e4 p\u00e4\u00e4dyin siihen seuraavaa asua valitessani. Chemise gown muodostuu noin kolmimetrisest\u00e4 suorakaiteen muotoisesta palasta joka taitetaan kaksinkerroin, muotoillaan k\u00e4denteiden kohdalta, p\u00e4\u00e4rm\u00e4t\u00e4\u00e4n, rypytet\u00e4\u00e4n ja ommellaan muutama ny\u00f6rikuja, olkaimet ja hihat. Puku on… <\/p>\n

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