{"id":10145,"date":"2015-12-23T09:00:27","date_gmt":"2015-12-23T07:00:27","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=10145"},"modified":"2021-12-19T20:44:18","modified_gmt":"2021-12-19T18:44:18","slug":"2312-isannalle-paita-shirt-for-hubby","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=10145","title":{"rendered":"23\/12 Is\u00e4nn\u00e4lle paita \/ Shirt for hubby"},"content":{"rendered":"

Oman 1700-luvun asun valmistuttua aloin samantien ompelemaan is\u00e4nn\u00e4lle 1700-luvun asua. Ja ettei nyt homma menisi liian helpoksi niin h\u00e4n valitsi tietysti hahmokseen 1700-luvun lopun Brittiarmeijan punatakin<\/a>. Materiaalien hankintaan saattaa menn\u00e4 joku tovi, joten l\u00e4hdimme helpoimmin l\u00f6ydett\u00e4v\u00e4st\u00e4, pellavaisesta paitakankaasta.<\/p>\n

Historianel\u00e4v\u00f6itys on siit\u00e4 j\u00e4nn\u00e4\u00e4 hommaa, ett\u00e4 autenttisten materiaalien l\u00f6yt\u00e4minen voi olla varsin vaikeaa. Vaikka vastaavia perusmateriaaleja l\u00f6ytyisikin, niiden laatu on usein paljon heikompi kuin vaikka viel\u00e4 50 vuotta sitten. Puhumattakaan nyt sitten jostain erikoisemmasta kankaasta, kuten printtikuvioista ja brokadeista. El\u00e4v\u00f6itt\u00e4j\u00e4n on muutenkin k\u00e4ytett\u00e4v\u00e4 mielikuvitusta ja oltava luova materiaaleja etsitt\u00e4ess\u00e4. Niinp\u00e4 mekin teimme yll\u00e4tt\u00e4v\u00e4n l\u00f6yd\u00f6n kun sopiva pellavakangas paitaa varten l\u00f6ytyi Prisman alelaarista. 2,5 metrin pellavap\u00f6yt\u00e4liina k\u00e4y tarkoitukseen kuin nyrkki silm\u00e4\u00e4n. Kangas on luonnollisesti valkaistu, joten t\u00e4ytyy katsoa pit\u00e4\u00e4k\u00f6 sit\u00e4 viel\u00e4 teell\u00e4 v\u00e4rj\u00e4t\u00e4 my\u00f6hemmin. En kumminkaan malttanut olla aloittamatta ompeluhommia samantien.<\/p>\n

Paitojen ompelu on siit\u00e4 yksinkertaista hommaa, ett\u00e4 kaavakappaleet ovat eritt\u00e4in yksinkertaisia, neli\u00f6n tai suorakaiteen muotoisia paloja. Mit\u00e4\u00e4n isoja istuttamisia tai muita sovitusmuutoksia ei juurikaan tarvitse tehd\u00e4, p\u00e4\u00e4asia ett\u00e4 mitat ovat sinnep\u00e4in. Toisaalta ompelu vaatii v\u00e4h\u00e4n pohtimista sill\u00e4 paitaan tulee paljon pieni\u00e4 paloja joiden varsinaisesta sijoittelusta ja yhdist\u00e4vist\u00e4 saumoista ei ihan hirve\u00e4n selkeit\u00e4 ohjeita l\u00f6ydy. Suurin osa ompeluohjeista on englanniksi ja kaikenlis\u00e4ksi ilman kuvia, joten osittain on v\u00e4h\u00e4n arvattava. Olen hirve\u00e4n pedantti ja tuollainen arvuuttelu ei oikein sovellu luonteelleni. Toisaalta voin kuitenkin lohduttaa itse\u00e4ni sill\u00e4 ett\u00e4 autenttisissakin paidoissa on saattanut olla hiukan erilaisia tapoja, ompelijasta riippuen.<\/p>\n

T\u00e4m\u00e4 on toinen historiallisen mallin mukaan ompelemani vaate, jonka ompelin kokonaan k\u00e4sin. Ensimm\u00e4inen oli omaan asuun ompelemani kolmiohuivi. Se on oikeastaan aika rentouttavaa hommaa ja tapahtui, kuten moni muukin puhdety\u00f6ni, tv:n katselun ohella. Ompelulankana toimi eritt\u00e4in hyvin pellavainen nypl\u00e4yslanka, jota l\u00f6ysin kokonaisen rullan parisen vuotta sitten kirpputorilta. Pellavalanka soveltuu tavallista ompelulankaa paremmin k\u00e4sinompeluun koska se ei mene solmuun niin helposti. Kest\u00e4\u00e4kseen k\u00e4sinompelussa lanka kannattaa kuitenkin vahata. Silloin se ei ommellessa hiudu niin helposti poikki. Langan vahaamiseen k\u00e4ytin mehil\u00e4isvahaa. Paidan ompeluun k\u00e4ytin apuna Marquise.de-sivuston 1700-luvun miesten paidan ohjetta<\/a>. Ohjeesta l\u00f6ytyv\u00e4t my\u00f6s mitat kaikkiin tarvittaviin kappaleisiin. Mutta tein niist\u00e4 kuitenkin viel\u00e4 t\u00e4llaisen v\u00e4h\u00e4n selke\u00e4mm\u00e4n luettelon.<\/p>\n

Paidan osat <\/strong><\/span>
\n1<\/strong><\/span>. 1 x miehusta (80 x 160)<\/span><\/strong>
\n2.<\/strong> <\/span>2 x hiha (60 x 70)<\/strong><\/span>
\n3.<\/strong><\/span> 2 x ranneke (5 x ranteen ymp\u00e4ryys + 5 cm)<\/strong><\/span>
\n4.<\/strong><\/span> 2 x k\u00e4dentievahvikkeet (7 x k\u00e4dentien ymp\u00e4ryys + 5 cm)<\/strong><\/span>
\n5<\/strong>.<\/strong><\/span> 1 x kaulus (14 x p\u00e4\u00e4ntien ymp\u00e4ryys + 5 cm)<\/strong><\/span>
\n6.<\/strong><\/span> 2 x olkavahvikkeet (7 x 18)<\/strong><\/span>
\n7.<\/strong><\/span> 2 x kainalokiilat (8 x 8)<\/strong><\/span>
\n8.<\/strong><\/span> 2 x helman halkiokiilat (6 x 6)<\/strong><\/span>
\n9.<\/strong><\/span> 2 x p\u00e4\u00e4ntiekiilat (8 x 8)<\/strong><\/span>
\n10.<\/strong><\/span> 1 x p\u00e4\u00e4ntievahvike (syd\u00e4n, leveys noin 5 cm)<\/strong><\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\"inenglish\"<\/a><\/p>\n

My own 1700’s peasant outfit is now finished, so I started to make 1700’s outfit for hubby. Not to make it too easy, he ofcourse chose his character to be the Redcoat from British military<\/a>. It might take awhile to get proper materials, so we decided to start from the easiest, linen shirt fabric.<\/p>\n

Re-enactment is exciting hobby because finding authentic materials can be very tricky. Even though you might find similar basic stuff, the quality isn’t very often as good as it used to be, let’s say not more than 50 years ago. Not to mention more unusual materials, like printed fabrics or brocades. Re-enactors must stretch their imagination and think outside the box when sourcing for materials. So we were able to make rather unusual find  for the linen shirt in the reduced basket in local super market. 2,5 meters long linen table cloth was just perfect on the quality. Fabric has been bleached, so I have to think about dyeing it with tea or something. However I could not wait, but started sewing straight away.<\/p>\n

Making shirts is simple because pieces are just rectangular or square. No fitting much at all, main thing is that measurements are approximately correct. On the other hand sewing requires some thinking, because there are not much proper pictorial instructions how the seams should look like in corners or so. There are lots of small pieces and you don’t really know how they should go together, so you have to guess a little. I’m quite precise person and guessing isn’t my forte when it comes to sewing. On the other hand I can relax because I’m pretty sure there have been different ways on doing things even back then, depending on who was making it.<\/p>\n

This is the second historical garment I have put together completely by hand stitching. First one was the triangular scarf I made for my own outfit. It’s actually quite relaxing thing to do. I usually do it while watching tv. I used linen thread for sewing. I thrifted it couple years back and it’s actually meant for bobbin lace, but works like a charm for hand sewing. Linen thread works better for hand sewing because it doesn’t tangle as easy. However to make it sturdier it needs to be waxed. I used beeswax on mine. That way it doesn’t wear out while sewing. I used the instructions of 1700’s men’s shir<\/a>t from Marquise.de. It includes measurements for all pieces needed. But I made a bit more clear list anyway.<\/p>\n

Shirt pieces (measurements in cm)<\/strong><\/span>
\n1<\/strong><\/span>. 1 x body(80 x 160)<\/strong><\/span>
\n2.<\/strong> <\/span>2 x sleeve(60 x 70)<\/strong><\/span>
\n3.<\/strong><\/span> 2 x cuff (5 x wrist circumference + 5 cm)<\/strong><\/span>
\n4.<\/strong><\/span> 2 x armhole piece(7 x armhole circumference + 5 cm)<\/strong><\/span>
\n5<\/strong>.<\/strong><\/span> 1 x collar(14 x neck circumference + 5 cm)<\/strong><\/span>
\n6.<\/strong><\/span> 2 x shoulder pieces(7 x 18)<\/strong><\/span>
\n7.<\/strong><\/span> 2 x underarm gussets(8 x 8)<\/strong><\/span>
\n8.<\/strong><\/span> 2 x hem slitgussets(6 x 6)<\/strong><\/span>
\n9.<\/strong><\/span> 2 x neckline gussets(8 x 8)<\/strong><\/span>
\n10.<\/strong><\/span> 1 x chest heart(width about 5 cm)<\/strong><\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\"linenshirtpattern\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"linenshirt1\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Nappeja vaille valmis. \/ <\/strong><\/span>
\nFinished except buttons.<\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"linenshirt2\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"linenshirt3\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"linenshirt4\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"linenshirt5\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Olkap\u00e4\u00e4n vahvike, kaulan kiilapala ja kaulus. \/<\/strong><\/span>
\nShoulder piece, neckline gusset and collar. <\/strong><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

\"linenshirt6\"<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Oman 1700-luvun asun valmistuttua aloin samantien ompelemaan is\u00e4nn\u00e4lle 1700-luvun asua. Ja ettei nyt homma menisi liian helpoksi niin h\u00e4n valitsi tietysti hahmokseen 1700-luvun lopun Brittiarmeijan punatakin. Materiaalien hankintaan saattaa menn\u00e4 joku tovi, joten l\u00e4hdimme helpoimmin l\u00f6ydett\u00e4v\u00e4st\u00e4, pellavaisesta paitakankaasta. Historianel\u00e4v\u00f6itys on siit\u00e4 j\u00e4nn\u00e4\u00e4 hommaa, ett\u00e4 autenttisten materiaalien l\u00f6yt\u00e4minen voi olla varsin vaikeaa. Vaikka vastaavia perusmateriaaleja l\u00f6ytyisikin, niiden laatu… <\/p>\n

Read More<\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":10930,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"23\/12 Shirt for hubby","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[27,228,12,7,150,13],"tags":[189,241,151,229,126],"class_list":{"0":"post-10145","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","6":"hentry","7":"category-evilompelee","8":"category-historianelavoitys","9":"category-munelama","10":"category-projektit","11":"category-pukuhistoria","12":"category-vaatehtimo","13":"tag-1700s","14":"tag-christmas-calendar-2015","15":"tag-costume-history","16":"tag-re-enactment","17":"tag-sewing-other-crafts","19":"fallback-thumbnail"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.evildressmaker.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/12\/linenshirt1.jpg?fit=600%2C928","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2H8as-2DD","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10145","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=10145"}],"version-history":[{"count":11,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10145\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":16270,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10145\/revisions\/16270"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/10930"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=10145"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=10145"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=10145"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}