{"id":10127,"date":"2015-09-19T10:00:32","date_gmt":"2015-09-19T07:00:32","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=10127"},"modified":"2024-10-28T23:20:27","modified_gmt":"2024-10-28T21:20:27","slug":"diy-nyorin-reikien-ompelu-sewing-eyelets","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.evildressmaker.com\/?p=10127","title":{"rendered":"DIY: Ny\u00f6rin reikien ompelu \/ Sewing eyelets"},"content":{"rendered":"

Etenkin historiallisissa ja fantasiapuvuissa sek\u00e4 korseteissa tyk\u00e4t\u00e4\u00e4n kovasti paljon ny\u00f6rityksist\u00e4. Ja niit\u00e4 varten pit\u00e4\u00e4 vaatteesssa olla\u00a0jotain mist\u00e4 sen ny\u00f6rin voi pujottaa. Modernissa vaatteessa ja 1900-luvun korseteissa se hoidetaan metallisilla sirkkarenkailla (j\u00e4re\u00e4mmist\u00e4 mittakaavoista puhuttaessa purjerenkailla)<\/strong><\/span> jotka ly\u00f6d\u00e4\u00e4n kankaan l\u00e4pi. Vanhoina hyvin\u00e4 aikoina (hehehe)<\/strong><\/span> moisia renkaita ei ollut viel\u00e4 keksitty, joten rei\u00e4t piti ommella k\u00e4sin.<\/p>\n

Vaatetusalaa opiskellessani meille opetettiin ett\u00e4 ny\u00f6rinrei\u00e4t pit\u00e4isi ommella tietyll\u00e4 tavalla. Nyt asiaa tutkailtuani olen n\u00e4hnyt kaikenlaisia muitakin, enemm\u00e4n ja v\u00e4hemm\u00e4n n\u00e4ttej\u00e4 tai k\u00e4yt\u00e4nn\u00f6llisi\u00e4 tapoja. Peruss\u00e4\u00e4nt\u00f6n\u00e4 kaikissa on ett\u00e4 mit\u00e4 tiiviimpi pistorivi, sit\u00e4 siistimpi ja kest\u00e4v\u00e4mpi reik\u00e4.\u00a0Minulla ei kumminkaan\u00a0ole tietoa siit\u00e4 milloin n\u00e4it\u00e4 pistoja on alettu k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4, en siis osaa sanoa autenttisuudesta mit\u00e4\u00e4n. Arvelisin ett\u00e4 tapoja on varmasti ollut yht\u00e4 monta kuin tekij\u00f6it\u00e4kin, aivan kuten nyky\u00e4\u00e4nkin.<\/p>\n

Huomioi kuvissa miten p\u00e4in neula on suhteessa reik\u00e4\u00e4n ja mill\u00e4 tavalla lanka kiertyy neulan ymp\u00e4ri. V\u00e4lt\u00e4 leikkaamasta kangasta mik\u00e4li mahdollista. K\u00e4yt\u00e4 sen sijaan tarkoitukseen valmistettua reik\u00e4puikkoa tai paksua neulepuikkoa. Jos on ehdottoman v\u00e4ltt\u00e4m\u00e4t\u00f6nt\u00e4,\u00a0muutamia lankoja voi leikata poikki rei\u00e4n keskelt\u00e4, mutta jos teet reiki\u00e4 muuhun kuin huopuneeseen villaan, ole varovainen\u00a0reikien leikkaamisessa. Etenkin ohuet tai harvahkot kankaat kuten pellava ja ohut puuvilla purkautuvat helposti ja rei\u00e4st\u00e4 saattaa tulla turhan suuri.<\/p>\n

\"inenglish\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Many historical or fantasy garments have often quite a lot of lacing in them. And to be able to do the lacing, there has to be holes. Modern garments and 19th century corsets have metal eyelets but in the older times there was no such thing. Holes or eyelets needed to be made in a different manner, sewing by hand.<\/p>\n

When I was studying cloth making to be a seamstress, they taught us to make handsewn holes in a particular way. After going through many webpages and tutorials for historical outfits, I have noticed that there is several different ways, not always very pretty nor durable. Basic rule is that the tighter the stitching is, the better it looks\u00a0and more durable it is. However I have no idea when people have used each stitching and how authentic they are for a particular era or decade. I assume there might have been as many methods as there were seamstresses, as it is nowadays too.<\/p>\n

Notice in the photos what way the needle is pointing\u00a0and what way the yarn goes around the needle. Avoid cutting the fabric is possible. Use eyelet awl to make the hole on fabric. If absolutely necessary you can cut couple threads in the middle of the hole, but be very carefull if you need to cut anything. Especially fine or loosely woven fabrics, like linen or fine cotton fray easily and it might cause too large eyelet.<\/p>\n


\n<\/a> \"eyelets1\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Tapa 1<\/strong><\/span>
\nHelpoin, nopein ja samalla kaikkein heikoin tapa on tehd\u00e4 kankaaseen reik\u00e4 ja ommella se tiiviisti aivipistoin. Olen n\u00e4hnyt eritt\u00e4in siistej\u00e4 ja toisaalta eritt\u00e4in ep\u00e4m\u00e4\u00e4r\u00e4isi\u00e4 aivipistoin\u00a0tehtyj\u00e4 reiki\u00e4. Se on nopea ommella, mutta my\u00f6s kaikkein nopeimmin kuluva. Ei siis sovellu kovaan k\u00e4ytt\u00f6\u00f6n, ellei ole valmis usein korjaamaan poikki kuluvia lankoja.<\/p>\n

Option 1<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\n Easiest, fastest but also the least durable way to make hand sewn eyelet is to use whip stitches. I have seen both very tidy and also quite messy eyelets made with whip stitches. It is fast to sew, but wears out fast in use, especially if stitches are not close enough to eachother. It’s not suitable for hard use, unless you’re prepared to repair broken yarns quite often.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"eyelets2\"<\/p>\n

Tapa 2<\/strong><\/span>
\nPienell\u00e4 harjoittelulla voidaan saada eritt\u00e4in kauniita reiki\u00e4 k\u00e4ytt\u00e4m\u00e4ll\u00e4 reuna- eli pyk\u00e4pistoa, joka ommellaan rei\u00e4st\u00e4 poisp\u00e4in. Pyk\u00e4pisto muodostaa siis kauniin ja tasaisen py\u00f6re\u00e4n reunan rei\u00e4n ulkopuolelle. Ompelemalla pistot n\u00e4in p\u00e4in on reik\u00e4\u00e4 helppo venytt\u00e4\u00e4 suuremmaksi kirist\u00e4m\u00e4ll\u00e4 pistot huolellisesti. Pistot ovat hiukan kest\u00e4v\u00e4mpi\u00e4 kuin aivipistot.<\/p>\n

Option 2<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\n With little bit of practice you can create very pretty eyelets by using blanket stitches, which are sewn outwards to\u00a0the actual hole. So the stitch “knot” creates neat circle around the whole. When doing the stitches this way around, it’s easier to stretch the actual hole larger with the stitching. These are bit more durable than whip stitch.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"eyelet3\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Tapa 3<\/strong><\/span>
\nSama kuin tapa 2 mutta pistot ommellaan reik\u00e4\u00e4n p\u00e4in, eli tasainen pyk\u00e4pistoreuna muodostuukin rei\u00e4n sis\u00e4\u00e4n. Etuna on parempi kest\u00e4vyys, mutta miinuksena ty\u00f6skentelyn hitaus ja rei\u00e4n venytt\u00e4misen hankaluus. Reik\u00e4\u00e4 kannattaa venytt\u00e4\u00e4 sopivalla ty\u00f6kalulla kesken ompelun, jotta saa sen pysym\u00e4\u00e4n riitt\u00e4v\u00e4n suurena.<\/p>\n

Option 3<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\n Same stitch than option 2, but sewn inwards to the whole. This way the neat row of “knots” is creating more durable edge inside the hole. Minus side is that these are bit more difficult to make even and it’s slower than option 2. You might want to use a tool to stretch the hole every now and then during sewing. This helps it to stay large enough for the lacing.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"eyelet4\"<\/p>\n

Tapa 4<\/strong><\/span>
\nMenetelm\u00e4 joka opetettiin vaatetusalaa opiskellessa. Samalla tavalla ommellaan my\u00f6s napinl\u00e4vet ja pistoina k\u00e4ytet\u00e4\u00e4n (yll\u00e4tys!)<\/strong><\/span> napinl\u00e4pipistoja, jotka eiv\u00e4t ole sama asia kuin pyk\u00e4pisto vaikka valmiina rivin\u00e4 n\u00e4ytt\u00e4v\u00e4tkin aikalailla samalle. Huomaa ett\u00e4 lanka tekee silmukan neulan ymp\u00e4ri! T\u00e4m\u00e4 on kaikkein kest\u00e4vin tapa valmistaa k\u00e4sinommeltuja reiki\u00e4 vaatteeseen, mutta samalla se on my\u00f6s kaikkein hitain ja hankalin tapa.<\/p>\n

Option 4<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\n This is the method I was taught when studying to be seamstress. It’s the same technique than for button holes and stitches are called (surprise!)<\/strong><\/span> buttonhole stitches, which are not the same than blanket stitch, even though they look very similar in ready made buttonhole\/eyelet. Notice that the thread makes loop around the needle! This is the most durable way of making handsewn eylets for garments, but it is also the slowest and requires\u00a0lots of practice to master properly.<\/em><\/p>\n

Muita tapoja<\/strong><\/span>
\nIrrallisilla renkailla voi korvata kankaaseen tehdyt rei\u00e4t. Renkaat ommellaan tukevasti kiinni kankaaseen yhdelt\u00e4 syrj\u00e4lt\u00e4 jolloin ny\u00f6ri on helppo pujottaa. Ne voi halutessaan my\u00f6s p\u00e4\u00e4llyst\u00e4\u00e4 langalla jos ei halua ett\u00e4 metalli\/muovi j\u00e4\u00e4 n\u00e4kyviin.<\/p>\n

Renkaiden sijaan voi k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 my\u00f6s nk. maljuja. Malju on melkolailla sama kuin koristeellisen hakasen vastakappale, eli metallikoriste jossa on kiinte\u00e4 rengas. Malju ommellaan kiinni kankaaseen ja ny\u00f6ri pujotetaan renkaasta. Kansallispuvuissa k\u00e4ytet\u00e4\u00e4n usein\u00a0maljuja liivien ny\u00f6ritykseen.<\/p>\n

Jos haluaa ny\u00f6rityksest\u00e4 todella tukevan, mutta samalla autenttisemman n\u00e4k\u00f6isen, voi k\u00e4ytt\u00e4\u00e4 sirkkarenkaita jotka kankaaseen ly\u00f6nnin j\u00e4lkeen p\u00e4\u00e4llystet\u00e4\u00e4n langalla. Alla oleva metalli tietysti kuluttaa lankaa hiukan nopeammin. T\u00e4m\u00e4n tavan etuna on se ett\u00e4 itse reik\u00e4 ei p\u00e4\u00e4se kulumaan vaikka sen peitt\u00e4v\u00e4 ommel kuluisikin, toisin kuin pelk\u00e4st\u00e4\u00e4n ommellut rei\u00e4t.<\/p>\n

Other options<\/strong><\/span><\/em>
\n You can also use rings instead of holes in the fabric. Sew rings tightly to the fabric, but just on one short area so that ring can swing freely and it’s easy to put lacing through. You can also cover rings with yarn to prevent metal\/plastic from showing.<\/em><\/p>\n

Instead of plain rings you can use specially made decorated rings. You\u00a0might be able to find these with names dirndl hooks or dirndl eyelets or bavarian eyelets. You sew the eyelet on the garment from the decorative end and then pull the lacing through the eyelet hole. Finnish folk costumes often use these for lacing.<\/em><\/p>\n

If you want to make really sturdy, but same time you want it to look more authentic, you can use metal eyelets through fabric and then cover them completely with handstitching. Metal will of course eat the thread after awhile, but atleast the eyelet itself doesn’t wear and tear even though the yarn might. Completely handstitched eyelets might loose their shape over time, especially if you don’t bother fixing them as soon as you notice signs of wear.<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Etenkin historiallisissa ja fantasiapuvuissa sek\u00e4 korseteissa tyk\u00e4t\u00e4\u00e4n kovasti paljon ny\u00f6rityksist\u00e4. Ja niit\u00e4 varten pit\u00e4\u00e4 vaatteesssa olla\u00a0jotain mist\u00e4 sen ny\u00f6rin voi pujottaa. Modernissa vaatteessa ja 1900-luvun korseteissa se hoidetaan metallisilla sirkkarenkailla (j\u00e4re\u00e4mmist\u00e4 mittakaavoista puhuttaessa purjerenkailla) jotka ly\u00f6d\u00e4\u00e4n kankaan l\u00e4pi. Vanhoina hyvin\u00e4 aikoina (hehehe) moisia renkaita ei ollut viel\u00e4 keksitty, joten rei\u00e4t piti ommella k\u00e4sin. Vaatetusalaa opiskellessani… <\/p>\n

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